Among the surprising, fun and chaotic city of Buenos Aires (a weakness of this traveler) should wander through neighborhoods like San Telmo, Palermo or, why not, La Boca to find the true heart of this city. The great flood, rogue bars that extend its life until dawn, small and dark alternative theaters or restaurants where you worship the napkin are part of a capital that can not leave you indifferent: or adore or despise. That's the magic of the traveler: choose.
The trip
But we are one love, in addition to all previously described (mea culpa), history. And in our journey through the soul of Buenos Aires are a mandatory step: Recoleta Cemetery. A graveyard full of legends and beautiful tombs. It's really interesting to hire one of the official guides and listening for nearly an hour much of the country's most important history.
Among the marble statues
In a narrow corridor of spectacular La Recoleta Cemetery, in Buenos Aires, the remains of Eva Peron's unforgettable. He does it in a vault, since many years after his death his body decided to return to Argentina, buried in the cemetery of Buenos Aires most important and protect his grave to never again be outraged his memory and his body.
The guide who accompanies us on the visit the graveyard begins the long journey the story of Evita at the grave of the man who gave the order to wipe your body (at the end of the main entrance hall). Irony rest a VIP Cemetery: Fate has made the former General Pedro Eugenio Aramburu and most beloved woman in the history of Argentina are neighbors to eternity. Briefly touch this gripping tale.
The news of kidnapping runs like wildfire and people seeking, following rumors, find the corpse of his beloved "president". Some mornings dawned building that plagued Evita placed flowers and candles and, then, was quickly transferred to another office
Aramburu ordered the 23 November 1955 kidnap the corpse of Evita, being embalmed by Dr. Pedro Ara Spanish. The body is standing on a flower delivery van and begins a tour around Buenos Aires. The news of kidnapping runs like wildfire and people seeking, following rumors, find the corpse of his beloved "president". Some mornings dawned building that plagued Evita placed flowers and candles and, then, was quickly transferred to another office. In fact, the body was installed at the home of more Arandia, who slept terrified by the possible emergence of Peronist at home. One night, after hearing noises in the room, fired at a shadow that turned out to be his pregnant wife: killed her. In court stated that had the face of Eva Peron, she thought it was.
Outrage of the body of Evita
The situation became so absurd that Aramburu sent the body out of the country, secret, and many legends circulating about alleged abuses and mistreatment corpse (have not confirmed these facts, but the issue provokes in the Recoleta cemetery itself a heated argument between the guide that leads the listener spontaneous visit and some Argentine. It is known that after recovering the body was missing a finger and that the incident Moori Koenig, ideologist of kidnapping, exposed her body in his office where he could be subject to some abuse).
Finally, in 1956, one year after a long chain of events, Evita's body was sent to Italy and buried in Milan, in the cemetery Mussocco, where he hid 15 years under a tombstone with a new name: María Maggi de Magistris.
Before, in 1970, a terrorist group, the Montoneros, Aramburu kidnapped and demanded that they be returned the corpse of Evita. The government reacted late and the general was executed. It is the only time that Aramburu would be kidnapped by the Montoneros. And 1974, and when the secret of Evita's body, it was public and his body had been delivered to her husband, Juan Domingo Perón, Madrid, Montonero took the corpse of his vault Aramburu Recoleta Cemetery, and demanded that Evita's body returned to Argentina. The desire not met her husband, Peron, but that was his third wife, Isabelita, that the remains sent for from Spain. The next morning the body was returned Aramburu. And 1976 Evita is buried in the vault of the Duarte family, in Recoleta, a few meters away who wanted to.
But Recoleta is more than the tomb of Evita. There lie the majority of presidents of the country, and several scientists and humanists who include a Nobel Prize. The beauty of the place is unmatched, with its streets full of vaults that were ordered built by the best European sculptors. It is a cemetery, with a space equivalent to four blocks, where there are no bodies buried under the soil and sold parcels of the cost of living death for years to have the "full capacity" (buy a vault there can cost the same as a flat). It is a mark of distinction for families Buenos Aires.
La Recoleta has dozens of anecdotes, as the tomb of Barnabas buried beside him her maid, unheard of, although, yes, it did in a space attached to the dome but outside, as befitted his social class. Or the tomb of Rufina, a beautiful young upper class who died at his coming-out party. A funeral Argentine law which amended, as the caretaker of the cemetery discovered that the coffin had been moved and knew he had been buried alive. Now the body is required to ensure, at least, during 24 hours.
The road
All these bus lines (there called collective) pass near the cemetery of La Recoleta: 10, 37, 38, 59, 60, 61, 62, 92, 93, 101, 102, 108, 110. Although a long walk, advise the chance to know the neighborhood of La Recoleta arriving there from the Avd Currents.
A nap
If you are going to be more than a week in the city, VaP. recommends renting a condominium: cheaper and more life in the city. They come in all styles and prices. Look at the websites: www.desigbuenosaires.com and www.bairesapartments.com
-In the neighborhood of La Recoleta pijísimo, the Alvear Palace Hotel is as. Look at the wen www.alvearpalace.com.
A table set
–Munich Recoleta: Almost opposite the cemetery, this old establishment was frequented by Jorge Luis Borges. Especially good ravioli and skewers. Calle R. M. Ortiz, 1871.
We also recommend two of our favorite restaurants in Buenos Aires, but are not near La Recoleta (nothing is close in this huge city).
-The Brigade: The best meat in Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo. It is a restaurant decorated with scarves of all football teams in the world and is attended by many artists and Argentine and international athletes. It has a spectacular selection of wines (must try the Malbec) and the meat is delicious. Cheaper than the pompous and restaurants of Puerto Madero, for us, equal or better quality. Direction: U.S. Street 465. (Reserve early if they plan to go on a Sunday). 20 euros per person.
-In the neighborhood of La Boca, recommend The Rolling pin. An Italian restaurant, homemade food and a delicious lasagna bolognese. Martin Rodriguez Street, 517 (near the stadium of La Bombonera).
Highly Recommended
Nightlife:
Buenos Aires is the ultimate night. All the city has room for the night, but we recommend two neighborhoods:
Palermo: Area bars trendy and care. Highlights Bizarro World, Serrano street 1222. Good cocktails in a stunning scenery and a large screen for movies that are issued after the local name (not unpleasant). Another possibility, in another style, is the bar "Cau". Live music, good pizza and drinks until dawn.
San Telmo: In this typical Buenos Aires neighborhood highlight the The German Bar, U.S. street, 523, with your local bar that divides the time and his eternal.
The Guevara, attached to the famous Borrego, filled bars where live bands play, is a good local rock music. Good price and great atmosphere every day.
Tango:
For lovers of tango we will give two striking proposals. If you want to go to a place where the locals really dance tango shows for tourists and, will Chip, Street in Armenia 1.366. It is a night to remember.
If you are looking for something more daring and spectacular, come to see the Orchestra Fernandez Fierro. They tango fusion and play at the club Atlético Fernández Fierro, Bustamante Street 764 (every Wednesday). The staging, enclosed behind a fence, is authentic. Go, not regret.
