In northern Ethiopia, one of the poorest countries on earth, blanket the city of Axum, What bitter irony, one of the main treasures of humanity: three obelisks of the fourth century and countless monolithic stelae embers of a great empire and disappeared.
The trip
The remote corners of the map often forgotten places feed the imagination of the traveler, especially if, such as, still keep the memory of a great civilization achievements diluted in the meanders of history for more than a millennium. Axum is the place chosen. Now a city of dusty streets and sidewalks dwindling, at the beginning of our era gave birth to a powerful empire that, from northern Ethiopia, spread its tentacles to southern Sudan and Saudi. He was the first African state to mint coins, at a time when Rome and Persia just did, and the first, also, to embrace Christianity with King Ezana. Another queen, Judith, swept the city in the tenth century and wrote the last page of glorious African empire.
History has been mean to Axum, buffeted by wars and famines that have been isolated even further, condemning the shoulders of progress. But the obelisks and stelae resist, perhaps sensing that they are the last hope of the Axumite ancestors for their achievements not forget.
obelisks and stelae resist, perhaps sensing that they are the last hope of the Axumite ancestors for their achievements not forget
That natural sympathy for the cities that have taken almost everything, to the losers who savored in defeating the gall of the days of wine and roses, Traveller takes steps towards Axum. In my notebook, the city is a small palm avenue paved with gray aspect and a row of shops filled with antiques and souvenirs. We headed Stele Park, one step away from the church of St. Mary of Zion, where the Ethiopian clergy swears that guards the Ark of the Covenant stolen from Solomon by the Queen of Sheba, but that's another story that will be told in another time.
The beam avenger
Distributed by Axum and surroundings more than 300 slabs and stelae, but the stars are the three obelisks that remain of the original seven, highest, the 33 meters, collapsed on the floor like a giant killed by stoning by the whims of fate (in fact, thought that collapsed when trying hoist). Until recently, only one remained standing, because the other has adorned the Roman Plaza Porta Capena, outside the headquarters of the FAO, during 68 years until it was dismantled and returned to the Ethiopian Government 2005. Three years earlier, lightning damaged the top of the monument as an evil omen that should urge the Italian Government to part with it as soon as possible.
Since September 2008, the old imperial capital has a reason to smile, the obelisk 24 meters and 160 ton rock started to make 1.600 years is back home. And 1937, after the Italian invasion of Abyssinia, the former, Mussolini could not resist the temptation and joined their booty as who gets the last souvenir hastily on suitcase.
Spruce it up and return it to its original site took time. It was not until September 2008, coinciding with the annals of entry into the third millennium (Ethiopians are governed by the Julian calendar, that is seven years and eight months behind the Gregorian), when the coveted piece returned to Axum.
Burial chambers
Let no one think of the Stele Park as a themed attraction to use. Depending on the time when they visit (especially if it is in rainy season) the traveler can walk alone in the shadow of these masses of stone that have witnessed the glory and decline of Axum. It is an experience that makes mute the mood and spirit. Admission 50 Birr (less than four euros). It remains a mystery how they managed to guess in the fourth century to haul the stones (the nearest quarry is five miles from here) and obelisks erected after the rudimentary techniques then. Under two of the three monuments carved with dozens of doors and windows are some lúgebres burial chambers that are crossed with the fear that at any moment they are going to collapse on one. In fact, are thoroughly braced and every so often closed for safety.
The transfer of the obelisk was not without controversy. An estimated cost around one million euros, an exorbitant amount for a country of many shortcomings with most survivors. But do not try to ask for the total amount of the project. Nobody answers, as if they had made a pact of silence with her beloved half-century obelisk after kidnapping.
The road
Is Axum 1.000 kilometers from Addis Ababa. Ethiopian Airlines made frequent flights to the ancient capital, scale generally (about four hours in the latter case). But the best, if the rush apremian, Axum is reached by road, for what it takes at least three days. But as it is a mortal sin pass by Bahar Dar and Gondar without dismounting, it is advisable to spend a week in the way. In Addis Ababa can be rented SUV with driver smoothly. Asalifew Mekonen(asalifewm@yahoo.com) has a car rental company. It provides reliable and even guides in Spanish (Jony "Cuban" is fantastic).
A nap
The hotel Africa, on the strip on the right as you go down the road of Addis Ababa, is pretty cheap. But if you come by car, nothing better to rest from the fatigue of the road Ramhai Hotel, the best in town no doubt, a memorable oasis of comfort where recuperate and face the rest of the route.
A table set
Into the bargain, Ramhai the restaurant is a treat for the stomach, but in any bar in the city can enjoy a "inyera", a cake fluffy and somewhat bitter taste made with teff, a cereal endemic to Ethiopia. The inyera accompanies all dishes (usually beef vegetable) Ethiopians and even take it for breakfast. Make sure you eat with your right hand, covered unused.
Highly Recommended
-Half a mile up the hill city of stone hides a booth Trilingual Stela, written in Sabean, Greek and geez (Ethiopian and Latin language of the liturgy), speaking very clearly how far commercial contacts reached the ancient empire of Axum. The stele was erected in the fourth century to paraphrase the victories of King Ezana.
-A highly recommended book above all, entertaining and rigorous, one of the leading experts on Ethiopian history: “Etiopía: men, places and myths ", the Comboni Juan González Núñez and edited by Black World.
