In the Valley cocora

For: Josep M. Palau (Text and photos)
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For some, Colombia is one Latin American country flowing with cocaine, guerrillas and emeralds, o sea, an unsafe place where life is worthless. Other, it is the scene of the novels of García Márquez, land of magical realism where the foot will never because of that abundance of cocaine, guerrillas and emeralds. But, I had been persuaded by Marta, a friend who had been working in the Spanish Agency for International Cooperation in Bogota and I had sworn that "there is another Colombia does not appear in the newspapers".

After a brief stay in the capital, we headed to the northwest of the country to visit the Parque de los Nevados, a series of spectacular volcanoes covered with perpetual snow, as the infamous Nevado del Ruiz, that destroyed the town of Armero in 1985. But our destination was farther south, in the Valley of cocora, where palm trees grow to giant 3.000 meters. The idea was surreal forest Crossed Impostor, unique worldwide, following the course of Quindio River to reach the volcano Tolima. Of course there was no public transport to Salento, the nearest town, so we spent five hours lying on a road junction that goes to Armenia, right in the Coffee. Finally someone picked up hitchhiking, something that is not recommended for foreigners both as practiced by the local. The truth is that the most dangerous of the winding track was the driver, who constantly came to chat with those who went in the back seat.

The idea was surreal forest Crossed Impostor, unique worldwide, following the course of Quindio River to reach the volcano Tolima

In Salento, a charming village colonial style, had to wait for the appearance of a Willis, one of those 4×4 classics that serve as taxis for unpaved trails in the region. As, meuniere lunch with banana plantains, menu inevitable Quindio. In fact, the entrance to the valley cocora next to a farm. A half hour of the same, find a farm to spend the night. While having a frugal dinner of hot chocolate with cheese, the cook asked if the area was safe. "Over here is healthy now, but in Tolima is another story "answered. We went to bed with a severe cold and the feeling of us to be getting into a mess. At dawn we were awakened by the sound of a rifle shot, though perhaps it was only the creaking of the old wooden walls, joined our imagination.

Morning, the view from the porch was spectacular; dozens of palms up 60 meters drilled fog banks crawling over the hills, composing a prehistoric landscape. Some cows grazing at the foot incongruous palm, discovered in 1801 by German biologist and naturalist, Alexander von Humboldt, during his famous trip to South America. Humboldt called them Ceroxylon Alpinum, scraping the trunk because you get something like wax and because the surrounding mountains reminded the Alps. Its popular name is Palma de Cera and is the national tree of Colombia from 1985.

At dawn we were awakened by the sound of a rifle shot, though perhaps it was only the creaking of the old wooden walls, joined our imagination.

We move between the palms and cattle inside the forest of fog, crossing the river by the seven bridges spanning the Green Heritage Foundation, biological reserve that protects Cocora. The road was leaning more and more, passing by ancient tombs quimbayas and flowers where hummingbirds libaban the eyes of the toucans. The height was noted, but we wanted to get to the Star of Water, a biological station for the study of Andean flora and fauna. Scientists working there told us that we needed only an hour to the Páramo Romeral, a 3.500 meters, vantage point of Tolima, but we were advised that we were aware. In effect, when we drew pictures of the volcano, appeared a large group of men dressed in camouflage. The regular army is distinguished only by the quality paramilitaries shoe. We had encountered in recent. Luckily, they were not looking for trouble, but cigarette.

Back in Bogotá, read in the papers that had fallen that week 4 FARC in Operation cocora.

 

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Comments (9)

  • Daniel Landa

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    Welcome, Josep, Traveller this meeting we call VaP.. With articles like this are sure that your section will be a success. We look forward the rest of your stories!

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  • Jalil

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    Very good history. Effectively, Colombia is more than its topics. It has even a beautiful desert

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  • Adalberto Macondo

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    It would be nice to be placed in what year was written the article. The valley has been one of the quietest areas of the region, there is also a hint of secluded that does not match the site, is one of the most tourist places of Colombia and quite accessible.

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  • Josep M. Palau

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    Hello Adalberto. Thanks for your comment. Effectively, Colombia has taken an important turn in every way the nLast years. History refers to a trip made no more than 2 – 3 years, and if it is true that the entry cocora Valley is a popular destination for domestic public, not so much for the alien who travels the country, and even less if you decide to climb to the Tolima.
    In any case, Hopefully we veamos is often here!

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  • Lydia

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    Thanks for telling this story. I learned things I was unaware of Colombia. It was a pleasant surprise.

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  • Marta D.

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    Thanks Josep, for bringing us these beautiful images… but the fact is that no photo can do justice to the magical charm of this corner of Colombia. The times when the clouds descend on the palms, in slow motion, the way in which sunlight is filtered and intense green carpet seems to glow mountain, hidden streams, inlets…
    Because of work, lived 2 years in Manizales, Park at the foot of the Nevados. I had the opportunity to discover the authenticity of Colombia and amazing contrasts. Stepping on the summit of Nevado del Ruiz and see the amazing landscape spread to his feet, explore the coffee, talk to your people, cozy, employee, always playful and cheerful. Discover the Amazon and pink dolphins, Guajira, the Sierra de Santa Marta and many other places. Colombia is fascinating!! Since returning to Spain, dream of returning… and I will certainly.

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  • Adalberto Macondo

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    Thanks for the clarification Josep. Clearly, two to three years have been sufficient for Salento move from a mountain village in a developing resort. Good thing you aventuraste by Snowy Tolima, that it a little way journey.
    Wait your interesting articles.
    Greetings.

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  • Josep M. Palau

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    The whole reason, Marta D. Here what stands out is the magic of the landscape. On the other hand, as pointed Adalberto, it's great that places like Colombia are opened to tourism (as long as you do with awareness and without large).
    Greetings.

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  • Josito

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    How things change Josep?. My site data are somewhat different. I have been last fall and to get to Salento from Armenia buses depart every little, Pereira same as. The hotel infrastructure is complete, or almost, and there is a festive atmosphere fuck the. Crowd agency take you to the valley, but actually, Salento still maintains that small town spirit throughout Colombia as if something highlight is its people, kind, welcoming and always willing to lend a hand, although as in the rest of the world can find a problem. Yo llegué «un poquito» mas arriba que tú, I actually spent three days over there, though I could not reach the summit of Tolima because time did not leave us. The landscapes of the upper valleys are absolutely spectacular with this moor vegetation that leaves you entranced between the morning mist. A place to daydream.

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