Una profunda cicatriz desgarra las carnes de una montaña que parece invencible. La puerta que abrimos para alcanzar la costa es un mareante zig-zag que ha mordido la roca de una empalizada natural para que las pequeñas criaturas que conforman la humanidad puedan ir de Lubango a Namibe. Nuestro 4×4 ha trepado hasta lo alto del paso de Leba, el altímetro señala 1.700 m. y nos quedamos extasiados ante un panorama que, como las ancestrales alegorías mitológicas, es mitad humano mitad naturaleza. On the one hand, la naturaleza nos hipnotiza con vistas sublimes a las montañas, esbeltos saltos de agua y farallones que ensartan sin piedad la tierra. Y por el otro lado, humans have generated an impressive road that winds through the rock crudely until it melts with the rolling hills of the plain and lost in the distance snaking.
Nature hypnotizes us with sublime views to the mountains, esbeltos saltos de agua y farallones que ensartan sin piedad la tierra
Behind this nest of eagles have left Lubango, the first large city we have found in Angola. A symbiosis of reality and shape future. Future when we see electricity, release their water sources to the sky and the colonial buildings that have survived are being rehabilitated, although almost every harbor official bodies. Reality when homes are kept up, barely, for their tenants. Reality when hundreds of people trying to survive by becoming street vendors along the sidewalks and when the entire periphery is a sea of ??mud shacks with corrugated iron roofs. The urban forest is made studs with huge posters advertising the mobile and warnings to protect themselves from AIDS, in a desperate attempt to stop the damn plague that is sweeping the country.
The route to the coast is spectacular: baobab forests in the mountains to give way to the desert, artistic rock formations and a valley oasis brimming with prosperity… until we got to the seductive Namibe. It was in 1482 when saturated in this enclave of the Portuguese Diego Cao dream, the first Westerner to set foot Coast promises. Today, enjoyed a fishing village with glowing reminiscences Lusitanian and, although very deteriorated for lack of maintenance, Roller escaped war destroyer. Its streets, dotted with colonial homes, timidly show its past glory. La Lonja is full of life and laughter, the fishmongers and customers chatting animatedly while eagerly awaiting the arrival of the first boats full of fish. A string of sandy coves and secluded beaches make up the environment of this coastal paradise.
It was hard to avoid the view of the board with photos of their fellow murderers mine victims
We return to Lubango Angola continue our ascent. Inside, again we are faced with hundreds of miles of roads that could serve as trenches. Despite being a national highway, We take more than 5 hours to make the first 190 km. and when the night we spotted was cornering lights that gave us hope. As we approach we find a de-miners camp. Overnight stay with them and, while chatting with these young, was hard to avoid the view of the board with photos of their fellow murderers mine victims. Now, every time we saw a sign for "Danger Mines" was coming a chill to remember those brave boys, most children, who risk their lives every day to clean Angola of this poison so deadly.
Benguela award involves so many difficulties. The natural scenery, human misery outside, looking hot: endless secluded beaches, palms, boats filled bays and natural harbors with fishing villages whose low houses have clear traces of better times but with the war over… again a coast full of "open door" to a future full of promise.
Benguela City expands along an endless beach and many colonial buildings have regained their pomp, harboring administrative buildings or residences of local authorities. But schools and hospitals also feature a dazzling rebirth. The entrance to the nearby Lobito, second largest port in the country, is chaotic but the burden is over when we move into his long, narrow, sandy breakwater. It is the noble part of the city, their 5 Km. long and 150 m. flirty wide harbor beaches, houses alternating with large colonial villas, a well maintained, other newly restored and some sadly abandoned the brink of collapse. A great storm forces us to stop because it is impossible to see anything for the brutal amount of water that falls on SUV crystals. The rainy season progresses relentlessly, hopefully not too complicated our next stage.
