The life of Christians in the Middle East

A bishop afraid in Uzbekistan, a priest who plucks the bells in Iran, a group of women who smoke and do not wear headscarves in Iraq, a community of respected Christians in Syria, a cathedral next to a mosque in Lebanon, un hombre que se niega a irse «de la tierra en que nació Jesús» en Jordania. A great story of Christianity in the Middle East.

Cristiano old. Concept, created in Spain during the Middle Ages, was not only a way of stigmatizing unfair conversos or New Christians, also a sign of immense arrogance. Old Christians exist, not live in the Iberian Peninsula, but in the lot immediately geographically birth of Christ.

In the second century stretched very many Christian communities in Palestine and Mesopotamia. Its growth and influence was increasing despite the military tensions between the two political entities that dominated the region: the Byzantine Empire and the Persian. But in the V century, Arab invading force came from East and toppled both the east and west of the Euphrates.

Why not Christians disappeared. Catholic, Assyrians, Chaldeans, Maronites, Armenians, Orthodox, Coptic ... It was never easy life. In the fourteenth century, were virtually exterminated by Tamerlane in Mongolia and Central Asia. In the nineteenth touched them in Asia Minor to be massacred by the Ottoman Empire. In the twentieth, Stalin pursued with a vengeance. In the century a new wave of fundamentalism fierce noted the objective.

UZBEKISTAN

In Tashkent Cathedral Bishop receives me, a Pole soft gestures and patients. Bless my bike and tells me that the temple was built between 1912 and 1923 Austro-Hungarian prisoners of war. After the Armistice, Communists harassed faithful until 1939 worship was banned permanently. The bishop died in prison. After the implosion of the USSR in 1991, the church was restored with foreign donations. Although silent on the subject, I know that Catholics today are closely watched, they prevent public celebrations and temples are subject to frequent records. Nor can I start a complaint to two Sisters of Charity who encounter queuing to renew the visa. They know not to jeopardize their work for personal relief useless.

IRAN

Christians settle in the province of West Azerbaijan recondite, wedged between Armenia, Turkey and Georgia. Inside there are beautiful mountains such as the Orthodox monasteries Kalesi. But the cult is concentrated in Urmia, unofficial capital of Christianity in the area where there are Catholics, Chaldeans, Armenians and even Protestants. It is easy to recognize the faithful. Not hidden. Hang proud a cross in the mirror of their cars.

Attend a Catholic funeral. Women dressed in black tight. All of them are covered. Is Islamic legal obligation even for non-Muslims since I have nine years. The priest, a big man with deep blue eyes, refuses, perhaps wisely, to recognize any problems with the IRGC inflexible.
-Here we ring our bells-says-, in some supposedly democratic Western countries is prohibited religious manifestation that minimal.

IRAQ

The Archbishop of Erbil exclaims the world's indifference to the murder of Christians. The exodus is unstoppable. The Kurdish government builds settlements for refugees fleeing Sunni majority areas. But there is room for everyone. My visit coincides with an attack on a Baghdad church. I visit one of these villages half adventitious born in Kurdistan. To get here I had to overcome several peshmerga controls (Kurdish soldiers) far more interested than me in Spanish soccer league.

Women dressed in black tight. All of them are covered. Is Islamic legal obligation even for non-Muslims since I have nine years

I received a sad man and spent. It was a taxi driver in Mosul but had to flee. Now spend the day doing nothing, tucked into their plush slippers. Women appear family. Come discovered. Some smoke. Say openly about the situation. One of the men tells me that her sister did not want to marry. Apparently he did not like the guy who tried. As Christians, ensures, not forced to marry anyone who is not of your liking.

SYRIA

Christianity had deep roots here. In Sedenaya stands a great monastery. According to tradition, preserves a painting of the Virgin painted by St. Luke. Hundreds of pilgrims from across the Middle East. A middle-aged couple looks at the stickers on my bike.
-The problem is not in Syria, says he-, here there is no religious freedom and real conflicts with Muslims, mostly decent people. We are a large community and we are respected. I think the real problem we have in Europe. They are tolerant Muslims here, it seems that there are not so.

LEBANON

Tensions date back to the First Crusade. Godfrey of Bouillon conquered the Holy Land in 1099. His brother Baldwin I submit the port of Beirut in 1110 and incorporate the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem. Since then, the early Christians, followers of San Marón, called Maronites, ruled the destinies of the country until the demographics turned against him and reacted violently to violence.

Beirut teeming again for business. If there are tensions, not shown. A large mosque funded by Saudi Arabia stands peacefully beside the cathedral. Farther inland, there is a different country. In the biblical Bekaa Valley, Zhale is the largest Catholic population in an Arab country. Crowd of soldiers in the streets. His strength, however, only protects the center and main roads. The rest is territory of the Shiite militia of Hizbullah.

JORDAN

On the banks of the Jordan is the site of the baptism of Jesus and Mount Nebo, where Moses received the tablets of the Law. Madaba is also nearby and the Church of St. George, in which there is a Byzantine mosaic floor representing the first complete map of Middle East. I chat with the owner of a nearby store. Catholic, eighty years, husky smoker's voice.
-My grandfather fought with muscles, but my grandchildren do with the brain. All studied. Now are doctors or engineers. Living in United States. Young people go. But here I have my house and my business. This is our land, the land where Jesus was born. Why should they leave?

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