Border Kenya is behind us and the SUV Tanzanian land now circulates through a vast savannah dotted with small lakes where pastors masai lead to water his herds. The dry grass pounces hungrily road and only a sudden halt to circumvent a roadblock when we almost get ahead we startle. It smells like burning rubber when a giraffe, Twiga and swahili, crossing the track in front of us with weary trot. In case anyone has not heard, Babu, our guide, ditch any possible misunderstanding:
-Giraffe- exclaims overcoming the roar of the engine and boasting of his fledgling Spanish.
Although the day is accountable and, the road is a continuous movement of people, walk or bike, solo accompanied, handles remind tourists that they came first and that these are his ways, Africa's missing roads that so brilliantly portrayed the writer Javier Reverte in one of his books.
A Hemingway found it "the most charming place" he had met in Africa
Two hours after leaving Arusha, the Tanzanian capital of safari, is already dark when we reached the lago Manyara. A Hemingway it seemed "the most charming place" he had met in Africa, but the truth is that this natural park with the highest density of elephants per square kilometer across the continent lives in the shadow of giants: Crater Ngorongoro and Serengeti. An easement that, often, oblivion is paid.
And the truth is that has everything: large mammals and more 400 bird species spread over an area of 300 square kilometers of which two thirds come to be covered with water, an irresistible magnet for wildlife. Its location is, also, privileged: at the foot of the Fir Fall Rift part, is the sink which will stop the abundant rainfall in the highlands (especially from November to April), what makes your subfloor is a vast wetland that shines, eg, a fascinating forest that looks like something out of a story Tolkien.
The guides warn that it is dangerous to get out of the road because it is easy to get lost in the weeds, but some think they are in Port Aventura
The track wriggle the brush through the heart of the jungle between tamarind and palm trees just let light. Baboons come to meet us naturally claiming their daily ration of peanuts. Moisture also attracts many insects, temida ellos between the tsetse fly (here harmless), therefore it is necessary either sprayed with mosquito repellent.
Before entering the park, the guides warn visitors that it is dangerous to get out of the road because it is easy to get lost in the weeds. Just take a look at the green tangle around us to understand. But some people think they are in Port Aventura and a boy traveling with his parents in another vehicle approaches a stop to stretch the muscles and heads into the woods for some privacy to relieve. When it comes time to resume the march, lad no trace and her parents, obsessed with seeing the world through the lens of their cameras, fall now realize that your little one has been able to snack a lion. They call loudly while one of the guides walk into the bush in search. Soon, reappears surprised by the commotion. How to explain that you have chosen as a toilet where elephants often turn to ease the sting of parasites rubbing their bodies against weeds?
I had read that the Manyara was a garden even in dry season. "No more eating dust", naive thought. Soon I had land up in wisdom teeth
I had read that Manyara was savannah, even in dry season, nothing short of an orchard due to the amount of water that accumulate their bowels. "It's over eating dust", naive thought while, standing on the road (now with the hood up), I was about to enjoy the open savannah forest across. Very soon had dirt up in wisdom teeth. "Do not trust your father nor", mine used to remind me from time to time. He was right. Until the giraffes, smaller than the Masai Mara, looked more ashen skin on account of the insatiable tolvanera.
We had to seek nearness of water, Main Lake or any of the ponds scattered across the plain. Nowhere in Africa, either before or after, I've seen so many hippos out of the water. Next to one of these ponds, numbered in the tens. Dozing on the mud, next to each other, perhaps weary of soaking both, just unbothered by the company of a Marabou. They were an easy target for parasites. Occasionally, one of them opened his mouth as if to swallow a buffalo. But the buffalo, as the wildebeest, kept their distance, in case.
Nowhere in Africa, either before or after, I've seen so many hippos out of the water
I will not bore readers of VaP. detailing wildlife succession happened before our eyes (I refer to any of the many guides on the lakes of the Rift Valley). I just want to draw your attention to a park whose curse is being just an hour and half of Ngorongoro. Do not spend long. I would lose one of those unexpected pleasures that Africa gives you as your guard down.
