The best and the worst of the Perito Moreno glacier
He had seen photographs of the gazebo Perito Moreno overcrowded, rows of buses parked on the esplanade in front of the Patagonian glacier, queues of tourists waiting for the boat to navigate the channel floes… And, truth, I wanted a more intimate encounter with the Perito, one of those places on earth where he had always wanted to be.
They told me that in the Patagonian winter (our Spanish summer) the Calafate was more or less a wasteland, the temperatures drop sharply, the season was very, , very low, not worth it, ultimately, crossed the Atlantic to approach the Magallanes Peninsula (one of those names such reminiscences which alone justify a long journey) in winter. I heard stories that made me doubt (especially taking into account that our intention was to cross the Andes from Calafate to the Torres del Paine, another old dream), shift doomsayers who always spread clouds over your plans, but by then there was no going back. We had plane tickets to Buenos Aires already purchased and determining travel south. The drawbacks were undoubtedly an incentive: near the Perito would be less crowded. Perhaps in the end if I could have a meeting alone with the ice giant.
I heard stories that made me doubt in Feb, shift doomsayers who always spread clouds over your plans
From the capital Buenos Aires, reserve a room in a simple guest of Calafate. We arrived by plane from Bariloche, where we made a stop to give us the pleasure of skiing in the middle of August. Early in the afternoon, the main artery of the city, the Libertador Avenue, is empty. The shops are closed and the few tourists, still hike through one of the nearby glaciers. When finally goes desperezando Calafate, we go through several local agencies asking for tours to Perito Moreno. The first buses leave at nine o'clock. It arrived before them. We negotiated with several remiseros (as known to the taxi drivers here) the price for taking us there. None convinces us. Finally, Daisy, the hostel receptionist, puts us in touch with a trusted friend, Omar, converted into a gaucho pampero remisero. We close the price with the only condition that we have to leave at eight in the morning to arrive an hour before the tour buses, now much less numerous than in summer.
We close the price with Omar on the sole condition that we have to leave at eight in the morning to arrive an hour before the tour buses
The day agreed, Omar comes time for your appointment. We 80 miles ahead on RP 11 (recent 60 sound ripio, namely, land and unpaved). First skirted the southern shore of Lago Argentino and, once in the Magallanes Peninsula, back on track Brazo Chico, one branch of Lake, leaving us facing the famous glacier. Before you pay the park entrance (20 dollars when I visited), but as the guardian of the checkpoint was up early unless we become "an Israelite" (Omar tells us that some Israeli tourists usually get up at six o'clock to avoid paying the entry).
Punctured a wheel and that forces us to lose a few minutes (and do the rest of the trip with no spare). The excitement is getting more intense as we approach. Upon arrival, first satisfaction: we are alone. Take this opportunity to buy tickets for the popular nautical circuit against the north wall of the glacier (the first leaves at half past eleven). After, enjoy the gift of Perito Moreno in solitude. His unhurried contemplation is a blessing. His peace icy glacier comes over and speaks through its bellows ice, announcing the collapse of one of its intense blue moles churrigueresque. The channel is littered with small icebergs, orphans of a mass of five kilometers from the front, 30 deep and 60 meters. We visited the different viewpoints without removing eye glacier front. It seems incredible that an inert mass (our eyes only, because the strength of ice, apparently asleep, advances ratio of the square daily, as if to show he's still alive) much energy to transmit.
Upon arrival, first satisfaction: there is no one else. After, enjoy the gift of Perito Moreno in solitude
Separated only ten meters from the mainland, when ice earth embrace water pressure Arm Chico begin to do their job, slowly but surely, piercing the wall of ice to get water to twin with the other arm of the lake, floes channel, Bursting the already precarious bridge linking the mainland to the Expert. The image we have seen a few times in television news. I'm tired of reading the opinions of experts who predict that this phenomenon does not occur again by climate change. But periodically, continues to astound the world despite the looming global warming.
For an hour we only hear the sound of the ice and the sound of our footsteps on the wooden walkways
The scene is idyllic, and further rounds when he looked up and saw two condors flying over our heads. For an hour we only hear the sound of the ice and the sound of our footsteps on the wooden walkways (we passed only two other tourists risers).
The Perito overwhelms you with his silence, knocks your sense of wonder and peace you tons of blown. But all that magic fades when buses roar and, especially, when embarking touches to make the circuit by the channel. Everyone wants to get the best positions to make photo, to film the best plane. Few bother to enjoy the unique moment. I play with advantage: my camera has passed away a few days ago in a flood of Iguazú and disposable I bought is not worth too much trouble (warn, therefore, that the photographs illustrating this report, courtesy of my sister Alicia, were made in summer).
All that magic fades when it's time to embark to make the circuit through the canal. Who came to hand a vest salvadidas to flee
We retreated to the port rail while the starboard, closest to the glacier, tourist gets stuffed. A giant icicle falls into the water with a crash. ¡Ohhhhhhhhhhh! The boat rocks with the waves caused by the brand new iceberg. ¡Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh! The choreography is perfect. Who came to hand a vest salvadidas to flee. The crossing only deserves the punishment of oblivion. The best and the worst of the Perito Moreno glacier, separated by only unos minutes. So life is cruel sometimes. And just as wonderful.
Comments (2)
He
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Hello.
Thanks for the post, I found very interesting.
I wanted to ask you a favor: I'm organizing my trip to Argentina and I would like to have your opinion on the itinerary I'm sketching:
http://www.mivertigo.com/argentina-y-chile-2012-dia-cero/
It is important for me to know labor people who have already been in the country what you think are the most interesting and what they can spend less time.
Thank you very much
he
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ricardo Coarasa
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The truth Ele, Your trip has a great pint. Perhaps miss, taking so long, that no visits Jujuy, in northern Argentina, and do not spend one more day in Bariloche (besides the small circuit by Nahuel Huapi myrtle forest and have the chance to get close to Cerro Catedral and downs you some if you like skiing, bariloche also eaten in film and you can buy ski clothing discounts). Of course i would go from Calafate to such a magical place as Torres del Paine, can negotiate the journey with a taxi driver and make a night but only worth it if you love nature (do not forget to approach the gray lake, a movie with icebergs dying on the shore). And if you take one more day in Calafate tries to make the trek to the ice. From then to Buenos Aires have to spend four or five days is a city where you will feel at home. And visit Iguazú Brazilian side first, less spectacular (the helicopter is not worth). In VaP. published a story on our partner Iguazú and Gerardo Bartolomé has published a lot of articles about Argentina and the places you visit (Put your name in the search box cover). I recommend it because it is a crack and provides much information. Hope that helps some. For questions still here. Greetings
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