The overwhelming story of Mérida comes over you as soon as you set foot in the amphitheater, an ellipsis of ancient stones that is a nod to the glorious past of Augusta Emerita, the former capital of the westernmost province of the Roman Empire. Walking towards the podium for the stands between the tourist troop of selfies and polyglot conversations, The sand of gladiators and beasts looks like a great dazzling pan about to fry the dozens of visitors who wandering camera in the homeless hand in front of the vigorous sun's rays.
A few steps further, In the same San Albín hill, The Roman DNA icon of Mérida appears, Your impressive theater, Gentileness of Marco Agrippa, that immerses you at the first glance in the solemnity of the theatrical performances of two thousand years ago. It is one of those things that must be seen at least once in life, a gift for any curious spirit that, also, You can step on and feel until you feel the stones speak.
The sand of gladiators and beasts looks like a great dazzling pan about to fry the dozens of visitors
Because the Mérida theater could be inside a gigantic showcase and we would have to settle for the nose to the glass to admire its details, But we are fortunate to be able to walk their history without a clipper, a friendly way to digest its meaning. And so, walking, One begins to repair a metallic sound that defies in this melody of Roman caveas. Many of the upper stands (the highest cage, destined for the most disadvantaged classes) They are sheet that reproduces the color of the stone and, since the distance, They are barely distinguished from the originals.
Already on the scene, Under the impressive Corinthian columns and replicas of statues of emperors and pagan gods, and before the stands with capacity to 5.000 spectators, One perfectly understands what was that of the scenic fear that Jorge Valdano alluded. Turning your back on the orchestra, peristyle is accessed by the central door (Valva regici) that the actors used. The "backstage" is a large jalonado garden of jelly columns and porches, an old recreation zone that is mandatory to walk fleeing from the agglomerations. On one side, near the exit door, One definitely becomes aware of the magnitude of where it is when, to get out of public toilets, He is surprised walking on a crystal of Roman ruins. Even urinary trees rise on a piece of history.
When leaving the toilets, I'm surprised walking on some ruins. Even urinary trees rise on a piece of history
Walking towards the Alcazaba, The Arab strength on the shores of the Guadiana River, I like the pleasure of stumbling unexpectedly with the most courteous corner of Spain: The crossing of Hernán Cortés Street with the Hernán Cortés crossing, an unusual recognition for the cursed conqueror. As the sun does not hostage, At the foot of the old walls of the city we take a table to taste a shadow and, passing, A gazpacho and extreme crumbs. Sometimes, The food enters through the shadow.
The first thing that surprises when you arrive at La Alcazaba is not the Alcazaba, but the Roman bridge, One of the longest in the Empire (792 meters), and their 60 arches that are reflected clearly over the waters, meek to the naked eye but that caused over the centuries numerous floods that forced the Romans to build a containment dike to safeguard the city of the impetuous floods of the Ana River. The bridge, rebuilt several times, He has for a few years (It was inaugurated in 1991) its alter ego downstream, The Lusitania bridge, A concrete and white steel giant designed by Santiago Calatrava that is one of the referents of the modern Mérida.
As the sun does not hostage, At the foot of the old walls of the city we take a table to taste a shadow
Built on the Roman dike, The Arab strength (of which the walls and the cistern are barely preserved) should be contraindicated for desktop visits, When heat is so intense that they want to stay to live inside the cistern. Flee in the direction of the shadows of the grove that marked the banks of the Guadiana It is almost unavoidable duty if you do not want to expose yourself to a blow (low) of heat.
Touches to wander through contemporary Mérida and enjoy the bustle of its Plaza de España And of its City Council so colonial that it looks like a stamp of Hispanic America, walk Santa Eulalia street and approach the arc of Trajan, so fitted that it seems about to jump through the air (Magnificent succession of terraces to your vera to try to understand art to fry beer impulses).
And, suddenly, A big surprise: Look up and be surprised with the miracle of Diana's temple, alter ego of Ephesus
And, suddenly, A big surprise: deviate through the narrow street Santa Catalina, go to modern rod, lift your eyes and be surprised with the miracle of Diana Temple, A wonderful alter ego of the Ephesus temple embedded between homes (In the heart of the old municipal forum) that, by itself, Justify a trip to Mérida. I think the minutes I spent, abstracted from everything, Sitting on the stairs in front of their facade of Corinthian columns were the most intense of my hours in Mérida. Blessed Romans.
And that attached to the temple, the remains of a palace are lifted, The Count of Corbos, that in the 16th century it had the occurrence of building his home, Using even material from your illustrious neighbor, on the side of the temple. the nobles, you already know, They have always been very his. And, paradoxically, Perhaps the excellent state of conservation of the Diana temple is due, in part, to end up becoming the whim of a count.
The minutes I passed, abstracted from everything, In the stairs in front of their facade of Corinthian columns were the most intense of my hours in Mérida
It is time to keep walking, Now extramuros from the old Roman city, until circus, one of the world's greatest (His capacity was from 30.000 spectators). Before going down to the sand, They project an audiovisual that is not up to the magnitude of this Roman construction where cars were held until the 5th century. When observing the length of the spina, Around which the ator should take seven laps with their quadrigas, You have the unstoppable desire to run. And you do it. A few snorted later, Already in the goal, You feel all the weight of the splendorous Roman past of Mérida anticipating in your legs. And although the day has been long, How not to approach aqueduct flooded by sunset light?
