We were in Brazil. We were looking for beach and rest after three weeks of intense journey but, how could it be otherwise, also sought to combine it with some history. Remembered seeing nice photos Paraty and, as we had some time off, decided to take a bus from Rio de Janeiro to visit. In three hours we reached the village. Drizzling, why we prefer to leave the beach the next day and, although we mojáramos a little, walk the historic center. The houses, the streets, the villages and churches seemed to speak of a distant past where everything had been different.
Paraty is located at the bottom of a large bay protected from the sea by a narrow strip of sand (the Itacuruçá levee) and a large island, deservedly called Big Island. The village is almost halfway to two major cities: San Pablo y Río de Janeiro. Today it seems incredible to think that, 400 years back, This village could dream of competing with them, but it was.
The houses, the streets, the villages and churches seemed to speak of a distant past where everything had been different
Not far away, mountains behind the town, region extends Minas Gerais, that, as its name, possessed rich mines of gold and silver. These precious metals were to be shipped to Portugal. The proximity to the mines and their excellent port of Paraty did a better alternative to Rio de Janeiro. Thus began the glory days of Paraty.
We took several photos of historical interest; typical of the village church was for the next day, because we had to take it from the water. Morning, as the weather had improved, we took a boat that took us to the beaches of the islands and islets of the huge bay. To sail to take that picture I took pursuing. After diving in one of the beaches, I read something more about the history of Paraty. I was surprised to learn that the islands of the bay had been, somehow, responsible for his downfall.
The proximity to the mines and their excellent port of Paraty did a better alternative to Rio
In the seventeenth century was increasingly the Minas Gerais gold that came through this port. The population grew enormously, there was work for all. But over time appeared pirates took advantage of the many nearby islands to hide and attack the ships laden with gold leaving for Europe. The Portuguese had to change strategy, decided to take the riches from the port of Rio de Janeiro, but more distant, possible to monitor the ships much more easily. So he suffered his first setback Paraty.
In the afternoon we returned to town, seething with people. As the weather forecast for the next day was very good and we like quieter places in charge of the inn advised us to stay in Ilha Grande. The prospect of lush vegetation, tranquil beaches of fine white sand we decided to go. Well ... not only that ... I also liked the idea of visiting an island where the pirates had made strong.
We left things in an inn and impatiently asked for the desolate beach. To reach it by boat did a stretch and a half hour walk
The fate Paraty gave a second chance to make important. By the late eighteenth century, coffee and sugar had been displaced gold as the main wealth of Brazil. The region of Paraty had large tracts of fertile land, two rivers with abundant water and an excellent port to move production. The Portuguese brought hundreds of slaves and the area was filled with "plantations".
Arriving by boat to Ilha Grande, from the water we saw the only town on the island. Behind it a lush jungle, further back, the striking Pico de Papagayo. We left things in an inn and impatiently asked for the desolate beach. To reach it by boat did a stretch and a half hour walk. It was worth! We share a huge beach paradise with just a few tourists.
Electricity was cut across the island. "Spend forever", I told the girl to assist us
At night we ate at a small restaurant with tables on the beach sand. After eating an excellent rice with squid (Rizzotto de lula, for Brazilians) cut electricity throughout the island. "Spend forever", I told the girl to assist us. Planned to pay by credit card but, Given the situation, that would be impossible. Luckily I had some real, with coins including, reached to pay the bill.
In the nineteenth century, sugar and coffee plantations economy moving Paraty. But there, As in the rest of Brazil, wealth was based on a cruel and immoral practice: slavery. The Emperor Dom Pedro II received, because of this, very strong pressures. On the one hand, world powers were pressing him to proclaim the abolition and, on the other, them powerful 'LADIES farmers' wanted continuarla. The Empire was the only Western country that kept slaves. Finally, the daughter of Dom Pedro, the Princess Elizabeth, over a period of regency by his father's illness abolished slavery in 1888. The move sparked an economic crisis that swept the country. As a result of her monarch's government fell. Paraty, like so many other places, could not absorb the shock. Las farms, that slaves were not viable without, were abandoned. The exodus left the town almost deserted. For the second time the target slowed to Paraty.
While in most of Brazil, in the name of progress, it swept away the traces of the past, the historical Paraty survived outside of that progress
From the boat that brought us back from Ilha Grande had a nice view of town. As I took the last pictures I thought it was because of its economic failures Paraty remained an urban and architectural jewel. While in most of Brazil, in the name of progress, it swept away the traces of the past, the historical Paraty survived outside of that progress. The past is kept alive in their homes and streets.
The crowd wandered around the small harbor made me realize that Paraty tourism had found a new opportunity. I just hope that this time the progress does not kill the goose that lays golden eggs.
