Unknown by Jaén (In): the rock paintings of Sierra Morena

For: Text: Ricardo Coarasa and photos: Javier Brandoli
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There are two, looking at the world as more of 6.000 years, when our ancestors painted in a corner of Sierra Morena, in the meadow jienense Azogue. On the bare stone broken for ever and ever, the silhouettes of carmine powder have become a generation after another and continue to challenge rains and blizzards, to sun rays and a frost of dawn. Have overcome the time. Son eternas.

We are in the municipality of Aldeaquemada, north of the province of Jaén, following the trail of the Mediterranean cave paintings (declared by UNESCO in 1998 Heritage) by a forest of pines and oaks. From the town we made a westward track road "mountain of despair", we lay dismounted. Bushes descend until a small drop of rock that is saved with hands and feet. There, a the open, overlooking the whole of paintings Quicksilver meadow (discovered by shepherds in 1914), one 18 Aldeaquemada deposits that make the main core of Rock Art Eastern Sierra Morena. Two names, that of the Spanish Juan Cabre French abbot and the Henri Breuil, paternity share the findings of most of the deposits in the area. They worked side by side, but ended up feuding. His legacy, fortunately, is well above its high-profile dispute.

To our left, looming figures of the two goats, crude but accurate, with which the inhabitants of these lands delimited sure their hunting to scare intruders. They were hunters, as those now roam these parts gun on his shoulder, but artists. I worth with a quill pen to decorate these stones with natural motifs (first contours, then filling). The expert view Miguel Soria, our illustrious cicerone doctorate in Prehistoric Cave Art and specialized in, see what our eyes but do not see. Red dots aligned slightly overhanging rock. A way to kill time brush in hand? Does not appear. Surely, points us, served signaling or used as a sort of accounting. We, therefore, to the Neolithic history of sign boards or calculators. There is nothing.

Red dots aligned slightly overhanging rock. A way to kill time brush in hand? Does not appear

We were surprised by the neophyte (addition to their necks stylized and those horns that seem antennas) Red is the color of ruminants, who managed to add to the iron oxide (manganese in the case of black paints, rarer), a binder such as egg white or blood. "You know, explains Soria- organic matter since this has left traces and analyzes not detected ". But what are the deer goats? Most likely originally a deer pintasen (some asaetados with arrows or spears) subsequently converted into goats altering Figures.

These landscapes which for centuries were the demarcation between Castile and Al-Andalus hosting large animal wealth. For otters swim rivers and the forests abound in deer (we witness, as one crossed our path) and boars. The wolf, also, has become the landscape in Sierra Morena once the haunt of bandits who made this territory "human desert". The landscape, and tell the people of this unknown region of Condado, is as important as the paintings. For nothing.

We need to get on the road again to move to the vicinity of the Table Pochico (two miles southwest of Aldeaquemada), one of the focal points of rock art in the area. The trail starts to the right of the track, gently losing altitude until the Guarrizas River, shown meek and low flow (the backwaters are known here as "tables"). We crossed the channel wading through brambles rebels, Once on the other side, ascend towards the wall of quartzite that primitive men used as canvas.

On the right side wall, eg, four deer are grouped in the schematic art pastoral societies overlapped the naturalist

The place is fenced since 2000. That operators have surrounded this group of paintings (to protect them from thugs who mistake a treasure cave with a bathhouse where perpetuate their stupidity with rigor witty) not even noticed her presence. To finish the job, asked puzzled why he put the fence "because there's nothing". Yes there, and plenty, but no one should expect bruce occur with paintings of Altamira or Indalo Almeria Cave. Cuesta specify how that, at first sight, seems a mere stone's natural pigmentation. On the right side wall, eg, four deer are grouped in the schematic art pastoral societies overlapped the naturalist, thicker stroke, hunters villagers. Art ¿the necesity? The debate is open, but Soria, in a redeployment of wisdom, is clear that "they did not do these paintings for pure aesthetic pleasure, this had a utility ".

In this large rock is dealt four panels with paint splashed our Neolithic ancestors left their mark. The outcrop of quartzite offers all the bare rock in morning sunrise, so it still costs more to understand how the herds of deer and schematic figures have arrived in similar condition to this day. The traveler leaves this wild place with the vibrant excitement of who just found on the shore of a message that has survived shipwreck and storm surges.

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For the A-4 (Motorway of Andalusia), deviate Valdepeñas the Almuradiel towards the hamlet of Aldeaquemada (from Madrid are more than two hours by car). Just outside the town is the casa rural La Cimbarra (www.aldeaquemada.com). Ask for Angel (alcaide64@hotmail.com), who will guide us in the visit. He has the key to access the Table Pochico and although one can venture on your own in your search, it is not advisable, because the place is quite lush and easy to pass by. In the case of Quicksilver meadow, difficulties multiply and one can have a meter cave paintings and not even realizing.

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In the rural home Cimbarra serve excellent hunting products (must try the duck sausage, pate partridge and wild boar stew) in a rustic setting with a fireplace off the meal with a relaxed conversation to heat from fire.

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In the house have rooms (60 euros per double with breakfast), but we slept just south, very close to Ubeda, in the town of Sabiote, dominated by the imposing castle that once belonged to Francisco de los Cobos. Very near the fort, opposite the church of San Pedro, is the Palace of handles (www.palaciolasmanillas.com), one house completely renovated old stone well worth a stop. The products of the earth are a delight to the palate ("Pavo frito", jienenes spinach, the spectacular eggs mojetón, pickled partridge and olive oil ice cream was our menu). Do not forget to visit if you have the opportunity.

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-Nature lovers should come unavoidably to the Cimbarra cascade, which gives its name to the natural. The Guarrizas River saves a vertical cut 40 meters high, a real traveler amphitheater surprising, causing a waterfall that looks like a romantic oil. There are three waterfalls, but the most spectacular is the Cimbarra. You descend by a well marked trail (to the side of an old mill) to a natural terrace where panoramic further overwhelms. Then, return, be encouraged to deviate by one of the projections of the rock hillside will take you to the natural pools that form before the water vacuum despeñe. One such site to get lost and off the phone.

-The Castle Francisco de los Cobos, formerly in the hands of the Order of Calatrava, is now in the works, but announce its opening to the public for the next January. This fortification was the shield of Ubeda and Baeza against the Moorish kingdom of Granada. You can see the whole valley Guadalimar. We were lucky to visit from the hand of Pablo Lozano, Semer of Tourism (www.semerturismo.com), one of those guides love their land and the virtuous ability to transmit his passion, and his many skills despite his youth, traveler. They organize trips throughout the region and guided tours of the Jaén less known in several languages (Spanish, English, French and German, remember).

-For those who want to know more about these paintings is vital to consult the monumental and comprehensive work "Rock Art in the Sierras Giennenses", Manuel Gabriel Lopez, Miguel Soria & Sunday Zorrilla, edited by the Institute of Giennenses in 2009.
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Comments (4)

  • Paloma Garcia

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    Fabulous and unknown history. How beautiful is Spain and that little we know.

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  • Perche G.

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    I had no idea that paintings had Jaen, although I was some time in Ubeda and Baeza. I'll have it in mind on my next visit. Congratulations on the article.

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  • Francisco

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    Our history is still largely unknown, for the rest of Spain.

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  • ricardo Coarasa

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    Francisco, I hope, modestly, from VaP. have helped to provide a bit more the landscapes and history of Jaén. Thank you very much for following

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