Veracruz: port of the legends

For: Text: Ricardo Coarasa and Photos: © CPTM / inmate
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Veracruz is a place to stay stripped of duties and hours, enjoying the pleasure of reconciliation with the time, with the talks without violations. Veracruz is a port city, or a port city, which lower the flag and languish stress listening legends and terrible events still concerned about the daily cadence of jarochos.

A port of Veracruz as a treat for the traveler. The boardwalk is idiosyncrasy breakwater Veracruz, friendly and hospitable, festive and sensual, attached to its traditions. The life promenade exudes. In a timeless ritual, layered sailors on deck watch the comings and goings of passers and piropean to deserve chamaconas age, of grimaces and compliments calculated to provoke sighs in the tropical atmosphere of hustlers and hawkers. Just a few miles away is the Island of the sacrifices, named in 1518 by issuing Grijalva, precursor of Hernán Cortés, for being the first place where they found evidence of human sacrifice in rudimentary altars.

If the port is the muscle of the city, your heart beats in the socket, the traditional town square inherited from the Spanish. In its terraces crowded by tourists are confused discussions with the sound of the marimba while waiters weave through the tables opening hole in the noise. But the terrace is the excellence of Veracruz Parish Cafe, jarocha an institution where the traveler is obliged to rest his madcap experiences. It is a place for observing and being observed, a melting pot of visitors and visited, a magnifying glass that allows you to take the pulse of the old city of Veracruz, their legends and their traumatic memories, while tasting a fish Veracruz and guacamole salad lightened with a few beers Superior. On the Desktop, inevitably be asked a milkman, over the traditional glass coffee, if only to see in action the waiter to serve their particular mastery over our heads, the main attraction of this place become a hotbed of disparate language talks.

There are legends that seem real and actual events that seem legends. Because of Evangelina, Queen of the Carnival of Veracruz 1983 that, six years later, was jailed for butchering his two sons

As I said Veracruz exudes legends smell of salt in the shadows of the streets that hug the harbor. Undoubtedly one of the best known is the Countess of Malibran, that have entertained the absences of her husband with young lovers, after, disappeared as if by magic. Determined to have children, resorted to witchcraft and the witch had got offspring, but not the one expected, because the baby was born deformed, so they tried to hide. Her husband discovered the painful reality returning from one trip and, when he went to meet his wife for an explanation, found cavorting with one of the cherubim. He killed them both and ordered a servant who threw into the well of the farm, and full of dead lovers Countess, a species of praying mantis Veracruz. Although the servant warned that the well was a burial chamber where his wife got rid of his victims after squeeze of pleasure, Count threw to the same place the bodies of two lovers and her own son. How could it be otherwise, then went mad and ran for years his insanity in the streets begging for justice port.

There are legends that seem real and actual events that seem legends. Because of Evangelina, Queen of the Carnival of Veracruz 1983 that, six years later, was jailed for dismembering her two children and hide them in a pot of your deck. The muse of Carnival Veracruz had been abandoned by the father of small and, immersed in an uncontrolled spiral of parties, drugs and sexual orgies, the days of wine and roses of his reign were fading until Evangelina was alone and penniless. The 6 April 1989, his brother told the police, who found the remains of two pots of small, to which must be beaten to death unable to withstand his tantrums due to lack of food. Sentenced to 28 years in prison, married in prison who later became a drug dealer stabbed to death. Evangelina was released in 2008, but his whereabouts are a mystery, as disturbing as the cries of children were heard at night in the apartment building of the National Lottery, Zamora parkside, where infanticide occurred twice. Even his ghosts, playing on the stairs, several neighbors appeared to. In the imaginary Veracruz, Evangelina became the Spanish version of the Veracruz "which is the coconut", a threat with which to try to bring to heel the rebellious children.

When we returned to the hotel through dark streets brujuleando a voice startled us from the gloom of a doorway. The young shirtless, I think that the tormented spirit of one of the lovers of the Countess of Malibran, wants to know if we need help. We made our way. In the distance you hear a ranchera ripping hot silence of the night.

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Comments (3)

  • MereGlass


    Leo of those women so passionate of Veracruz with its turbulent past and mysterious future while I am sipping a freshly brewed coffee, trying to recreate (skipping the juggling waiter) esa linda terrace… So I know your stories and salt tropics, a bustling harbor.


  • ricardo Coarasa


    How good Mereglass! Truly, it is a pity that only Veracruz skip now to the headlines for its bloody settling of scores. Veracruz is not that I remember and this report is, somewhat, a humble apology for such terrible news. The terrace is a spectacle Parish, one of those places where you have to be dropped if still traveling with a hint of curiosity in the suitcase.


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