The trip
In Coimbra the walls are letters. The city seems to have been built to think it and live it, in that order. Coimbra is the quintessence of Portugal of nostalgia and sad fado sound there so much condemned as to hope. The University, Portugal's oldest and one of the oldest in Europe, dominates the city from his perch of stone. It's like if you observe any, with the city at the foot, to warn residents that are here one after the run. Then, among its narrow streets and steep, the city speaks in its walls filled with messages of rebellion, the default of thinking before he decided to be.
Coimbra University kicks from famada (1290), crown of the city, down. I have the luck to do with Ana Paula and Victor, more than two friends, I teach the viscera of their land. She studied there and experience the place as their own. Talk of Coimbra like sing a fado: in past, present and future.
Cleaners is the most unique complex of this compound: live within that handle bats eat bugs at night they can attack the paper relics
I have to pay between seven and nine euros to start visiting the historic area of ??the university complex, ancient Arab fortress and subsequent palace and seat of the fledgling monarchy lusa. Crossing the Gate sculpture Ferrea and access to a large patio to blend art and ideas. Before, in the access aisle is the chapel of San Miguel, Ana Paula said it was open at exam time 24 hours for students to beg a pass.
The old Palacio University and retains the splendor of bygone times. The "Joanina" library is an amalgam of old books surrounded by frescoes and coffered striking baroque style. "The cleaning of the complex is most unique about this site: live within that handle bats eat bugs at night they can attack the relics of paper ", I explain my friends. Then there is the "Academic Jail", the "Steps of Minerva", Rector's Palace, the auditorium ... (the information given to the input, so do not amuse me further explain the building). But the fascination of the University is to see students dressed in their traditional black coats, pears to walk their instruments and voice for the city, the fraternities make their rituals of initiation with the innocence of who knows what lies ahead of the years of his life more fun. Being a student in Coimbra has something different. Perhaps because of its long staircase rising to the site that says the tradition to be up and down several times to succeed in studies. I, with those adopted and made, I do only look.
"Queima of Fitas". On the steps of the temple, just at twelve o'clock, when the last bell rings, is heard a guitar chord solo
From the University descend through the maze of narrow cobbled streets leading to the old cathedral. There I said Ana Paula held every year when exams finish, in May, known as the "Queima of Fitas". On the steps of the temple, just at twelve o'clock, when the last bell rings, is heard a guitar chord solo. Only hear that, a guitar chord that breaks the silence among thousands who throng the square and the surrounding. Start a melancholy serenade reminiscent of the beginning and end marks both a country determined to reinvent itself ever since the last. She will light up the eyes at the memory.
The city falls then to the River Mondego, the longest of those born in Portugal. Streets broken off walls where graffiti always find vindication. Coimbra was one of the key foci in the riots that ended the dictatorship of Salazar 1974. What about a country that became a revolution of carnations? Or as the great Manolo García "why carnations says for a revolution?
“A Capella”, renovated an old chapel where fado listening to the twelve o'clock
Take down, the river, especially at night, the city is evident. University hang all households, which are held in equilibrium at the walls of the old school. Beautiful picture. You should also visit the Fifth of Tears, Today luxury hotel, where the popular imagination says that the rock was tattooed on the blood of the Spanish Dona Ines de Castro, mistress of Crown Prince Don Pedro, and whose cruel death for political reasons produced a sublime love story that ended with the crowning of her as queen after death. The red spots on the rock that simulate his death are due to algae, but never mind that in a place where the walls are lined with words. Everything can invent in Coimbra.
Finally is the fado. "This is more sad than in Lisbon, his lyrics are deeper ", Victor explains me. I like that ability to mourn Portuguese smile that made them have a word as beautiful as their own, "Saudade", which means "to miss". A word where the rest we need an expression. My friends take me to "A Capella", renovated an old chapel where fado listening to the twelve o'clock. There, nestled in a bend of a street where there is little room to turn a car, City goes like this listening to lyrics that describe your soul. 'Saudade Portugal!
Coimbra is a lesson
Dream and tradition
The lens is a song
It's taking the faculdade
The book is a woman
Only those who know is
And learn to say miss
Coimbra's choupal
Ed capital ainda
Love in Portugal, still
Where once Coimbra
With tears became
The story of Agnes so beautiful
Coimbra songs
Coimbatore we Poe
Our hearts, to luz…
Doctors from Coimbatore
For us its singers
The source of love is you.
Recommendations for eating and drinking
To eat
A Taberna. Traditional Portuguese food restaurant. The menu is varied and of high quality. The place keeps the essence of the old taverns lusas. My hosts told me that Portuguese was his favorite in the city. Highly Recommended. Street fighters of the Great War, 86. Tfn: 239 716 265
Practice. Modern restaurant, glazing and excellent views of the historic. They make beer and have a plate of excellent tapas. Mussels or patatas bravas, very good. Fifth Urbaanización the lowland, lot 29, Santa Clara. Tfn: 239 440 207
For a drink
Botanical Bar. A small local, two plants, where you make the best cup of Coimbra. A secret reserved only for professionals in the city. Rua Bairro of S. José No. 5
NB Club. Disco perfect for the nostalgic 80 on Friday night. Music of the decade in a large enclosed space where dance and a drink. About, in Portugal is allowed to smoke in most enclosed spaces are bars and restaurants. It is filled from three in the morning of the university environment. Street Venancio Rodrigues 11 a 17
