The soul of a city is forged, especially, in the character of its people, in the weight of its history and in the expression of its urban landscape. The former bustles in the markets, on public transport and in its bars and cafes; the second rests in the books and in the memories of his elders and the third, in its buildings and monuments. But, besides soul, cities have feelings. I realized last december, when Mechelen felt slighted and made us pay for it (and I will not be the one who reproaches him).
We had to get to Mechelen by train in the early afternoon, But the magic of Ghent seduced us in such a way that we decided to extend our stay in the hometown of Charles V to see if the night suits him as well as they say. We did, and it was certainly worth it, with a few wisps of regret, knowing that we were sacrificing, somewhat, a few extra hours in Mechelen, our next destination.
Besides soul, cities have feelings. Mechelen, also
Finally, we arrived just in time for dinner. The next day a taxi was to take us to Lier at 10:30 in the morning. We only had two hours to tour the city of 300 protected monuments, of the churches where Rubens or Van Dijck left their lasting mark, of the Margarita Palace, of the Tower of San Romualdo, the su imponente Grand Mark, from its lively Vismarkt square… This haste only increased my bad conscience, more and more sure that, like a child after his latest mischief, a more than deserved punishment awaited me.
I understood it as soon as I looked out the window as soon as I woke up. It was a dog day. Not, Mechelen was not going to make it easy for me. Without stopping drizzling, we crossed the river Dijle by the big bridge, where the floating walkway of the Dijlepad is born (an original way to explore the historic center, especially at night, although we will stay with the desire) and we lined up the stately iron loan, flanked by the iron railings that lined the river until it was buried in the 16th century. The bombardments of the Great War demolished the stately homes on either side of the promenade that ends at the Schepenehuis, former city hall and today municipal museum.
I understood it as soon as I looked out the window as soon as I woke up. It was a dog day
Behind, immediately the main square of Mechelen opens, the big Mark, where the San Romualdo tower and the City Council compete in capturing the visitor's attention. We hurried to protect ourselves from the rain under the awnings of one of the cafes that surround the square.. The light is leaden, as if the sun was doomed in no man's land, and it is not easy to get good pictures. But one, aware that Mechelen is giving us what we deserve for having scorned it hours before, he doesn't even dare to complain.
The old cloth market, now consistory, It looks like a medieval castle, with its half-built bell tower and the modern palace of the Superior Council, for whose construction part of the fish market was demolished. But the stones also have memory and in 1546 lightning blew up the door of the Mechelen tinderbox. The building was completed in the 20th century following the original plans.
En el Great Mark, the tower of San Romualdo and the Town Hall compete to capture the attention of the visitor
For a few minutes, looking for shelter from Mali revenge, we visit the interior of the city ??Hall, its beautiful fireplace in the living room of the council, the amazing tapestry that Charles V had woven of the battle of Tunis (forgotten for two centuries in a loft), its stately stairs… But when I return to the street it continues to rain and, umbrella in hand, we approach the nearby baroque church of St. Peter and St. Paul along the Befferstraat, that the Jesuits erected in honor of Saint Ignatius and Saint Francis Xavier. Inside you there is nothing less than 14 confessionals, for what -according to- the merchants of the nearby cattle market will atone for their sins for the many deceptions of their customers.
One step away are the ancient palaces of Margaret of Austria, who was governor of the Netherlands and educated Charles V and his sisters in Mechelen, and Margaret of York, wife of Carlos the Fearless, which shows the undoubted importance of women in the history of Mechelen. Opposite the first is a very popular tavern, «Hanekeef » (The chicken coop), well worth a few minutes of rest to savor a Gouden Carolus, the renowned local beer.
The tavern «Hanekeef» (The chicken coop) well deserves a few minutes of rest to savor a Gouden Carolus
With the weather and the rain on our heels we get closer to the one that was Jerome's Palace of Busleyden, humanist friend of Erasmus, now a museum after being practically destroyed during the Great War, and nearby church of san juan, that houses an exceptional triptych by Rubens. In front of the tower of this temple crouches the Klapgat (gossip corner), a narrow passage where parishioners gathered to exchange gossip after mass.
There is only one silver lining for redemption: return to reconcile with the beautiful flamenco city
One of the main attractions of Mechelen, climb the tower of San Romualdo to enjoy the city from the heights, is necessarily pending, as the tour of the little Beguinaje, the ancient city of pseudomonjas, one of the hallmarks of Flanders.
Back at the hotel, one goes ruminating that bitter feeling of having been in a place without hardly being, goodbye at first sight, hasty and undeserved, that barely leaves us a loophole for redemption: return to the slightest opportunity to pay off that outstanding debt and reconcile with the beautiful Flemish city. Perhaps then Mechelen has forgotten the affront and welcomes us with sunshine.
