There is nothing more evocative in the infinitely vast desert than the impertérrita image of caravan legendary. Our enthusiastic sail idea Sahara hundreds of miles to go from Ghat to the remote town of Ghadames, aims to follow in the footsteps of the intrepid caravans for centuries roamed the wayward sand from this ocean of sand.
Ghat patiently waited in the arrival of a further 4×4 who wanted to make this risky route separating this vestige Tuareg Ghadames city. We discourage cross with a single vehicle by difficulties and mishaps may occur on a route over 600 Km. of pure wilderness with total isolation. Addition, must register before you leave and required to do so with a guide, not only for the ease of getting lost but also because it touches the border of Algeria and is very easy to inadvertently enter. That would entail the subsequent arrests and problems if one encounters a patrol Algerian border surveillance.
Browse over the dunes is an inner struggle, is felt constantly in danger of capsizing and yearn to end soon but everything is so beautiful you do not want to get out of that environment
The days pass and our wait is fruitless, sometimes impatience can only reason and this is one of those times. Tired of waiting hired the Tuareg Ahmed. We guarantee that knows the "great void". We signed police Ghat and Ghadames we reach back to check to close the route. Ahmed and our GPS will be our only "angels" in this lonely "caravan". In two hours we buy groceries and carry many jerry cans and fuel as we allow our limited space. It's time to leave. Ghat ... just we leave all traces of civilization disappears instantly. The first hundred miles are seemingly simple but soon make an appearance the big dunes. The charred carcasses of SUVs dotting the route as threatening spectra that remind us that the domains of the sands are not child's play. The dunes, as beautiful as aggressive, we make endless. Browse over them is an inner struggle, is felt constantly in danger of capsizing and yearn to end soon but everything is so beautiful you do not want to get out of that environment. After riding on the dunes, hamadas scree and are alternated and many precautions we take just clicking a wheel. Only we glimpse the work of man in a fleeting oil camp that we saw on the distant horizon and that we lose sight soon after.
Ahmed indications begin to be very inaccurate, seems to doubt. After traveling more than 670 Km. the desert… should already glimpse the desired Ghadames but the GPS tells us we still remain 80 Km. as the crow flies… and in this environment there is no straight line. Ahmed assures us that soon we will reunite with it correct course but are well. The truth is that it has completely lost references and introduced us to an area that has not been in his life. We are doing go blind to see if you recognize something. Although the exact GPS directions on the position of destination is no way to find their way through this maze of rocks, jebeles and sand traps.
There is no way to reach Ghadames. Ahmed has no idea how to get out of here and GPS tells us where we are and the destination but not the way
The hours go by and the route increasingly more complicated. The stony follow one after another, low pay tribute and lose the second spare wheel, and going with nothing. To top, we get into a vast plain of fech-fech, the treacherous sand as fine as flour volatile. Plates, sweat, shovels, sand to the most remote and working wipers fech-fech because we are hitting the panes. There is no way to reach Ghadames. Ahmed has no idea how to get out of here and GPS tells us where we are and the destination but not the way. Do not know where to cross the jebeles around us. We recall that distinguish oil field this morning and decided to try to locate it by reversing the recorded GPS points.
Night falls but went ahead, got to the point where I spotted. We stop, stop the engine, turn off all the lights and hope to get used to the darkness hoping to see some light in the distance. And so it was, five minutes we seemed to feel a little lights and headed towards them. When we entered the premises do not give credit to the appearance of a lone vehicle at night. Passed the surprise, the charge of the same, a pleasant and hospitable Libyan, welcomes us with open arms. The next morning we check the underside of the car but, but battered, the blows fractured rocks have not anything. Only one stirrup bending. The camp workshop itself we stick a camera in the least spoiled of the wheels burst and set off again with the corrected course.
I redirected, we can reach our goal: Ghadames, "The Pearl of the Desert" World Heritage for UNESCO. This crossroads of caravans traded with profitable products like wild animals, gold, ivory and… slaves. Many people wandered by its narrow corridors: African, Arab, Berbers and tuaregs, leaving their footprints in this cozy desert city. Romans and Byzantines also conquered the strategic square and the first European who has passed his door was Alexander Gordon Laing 1824, on his way to Timbuktu. What surprised the bold explorer was harmony and hospitality among the people living.
Romans and Byzantines also conquered the strategic square and the first European who has passed his door was Alexander Gordon Laing 1824, on his way to Timbuktu.
The site is really amazing and, but lonely, the times we have come across with ANCIANOS, we greet with an Italian sympathy and somewhat forgotten, chat a few minutes before continuing on your way to the mosque, where they undertake their prayers. "Salam salam m'alekum alekum ...". His engaging story competes with the beauty and magic that holds its incomparable medina with arcades and labyrinthine corridors. Covering the walls whiteness, of this intricate maze of corridors, is contrasted with the dark galleries that open to either side of the passages that make up the medina. We lose by narrow and dark alleys, where palm trunks doors seal the traditional homes of the past. Finally got a breath of fresh air. Desert dwellers had to devise mechanisms for shadows and construction creating air currents that enable them to cope with their stay in these rude latitudes. And between hospitality and uniqueness of one of the most symbolic sites of the country has come to an end our tour of Libya.
For thousands of years the land has been inhabited Libya and traveled by people and people of many different backgrounds and temperaments. And all surrounded by such alluring and mysterious as scenario the Great Sahara that has transformed this desert forgotten in an unforgettable desert ... but civil war has closed the door of this marvelous destination that take a long time to recover from such a brutal setback.
