The trip
A young woman is transformed into pork to save his people. A monastery on the banks of one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, angry spirits revered shelter for hundreds of years by the Tibetan people behind the Himalayas. A legend, breathtaking scenery and the highest mountains on earth. Can not ask for more. Few experiences routed the steps of the traveler to a distant past. Despite the relentless and tenacious Chinese tide, corner of Tibet is still looking huddled in the Middle Ages and they give the visitor an unforgettable pictures of the snow country. We headed Lake Yamdrok, south of Lhasa, north of the border with Bhutan, on a road that climbs to ports impossible to traverse the backbone of Himalayas. It is the dream of every lover of Nature.
We headed Lake Yamdrok, south of Lhasa, north of the border with Bhutan, on a road that climbs to ports impossible to traverse the backbone of Himalayas
To have the first glimpses of the turquoise lake there is to crown the Kamba-la ("La" is a port in Tibetan), after more than two hours of almost uninterrupted rise working our way through the thick fog. You never know what's behind the next bend. Sometimes, of the blue, we stumbled upon a gang of children, fork in hand, stone cleaning the asphalt punished. Other, with workers filling potholes frequent or sparse hair sheep crossing with parsimony. Landslides are the order of the day in monsoon season and their footprints, violent bite on the slopes of the mountain, can be seen at every step. Needless to wonder what would happen if one of us filled pillase. In two hours we have not crossed with any other vehicle and the nearest hospital is in Lhasa.
At the back of a yak
The reward is infinite. The masts full of prayer flags the wind spreads over the horizon of Tibet to the spirits of the mountains indicate that we have arrived at the port, a 3.800 meters. At our feet lie the blue waters of Yamdrok, one of the four holy lakes of Tibetan Buddhism alongside those of Lhamo La-tso, Nam-tso and Manasarovar. The lungs are filled with an icy mysticism.
You never know what's behind the next bend. Sometimes, of the blue, we stumbled upon a gang of children, fork in hand, stone cleaning the asphalt punished
And this ode to the unexpected that is traveling through Tibet, the traveler is surrounded, just take a dismounted, by a group of farmers who insist that up to one of their trappings yaks (a kind of woolly cow prominent hump that people of these extreme landscapes) to take a photograph in exchange for five yuan (only average euro). No need to look around. No one can remember after a show so surreal, So soon you're perched on the back of tame animal enjoying the turquoise lake views as you never imagined.
The road descends from that point as abruptly as before has gained altitude, elusive along the shores of Lake (whose appearance some compare to a scorpion, but must take much imagination). Poke down there the ruins of the monastery of Samding, Vivio donde Dorche Pagmo, adolescent girls to Heinrich Harrer, the author of "Seven Years in Tibet", referred to as "the only female reincarnation of Tibet".
Pigs and wild boar to chase away the Mongols
This woman has gone down in Tibetan history to save from destruction the monastery in 1716. When Mongol troops from Central Asia were preparing to raid the building, Pagmo Dorche pig became, "The monks took the form of wild boar and the monastery was turned into a pigsty". The invaders passed by and left the church intact. Since then, the girl always has been reincarnated in a young girl.
The monastery, where he still lives a handful of monks, you can visit, although it is best reached on foot from the nearby town of Nangartse, because the track is often in poor condition, especially in rainy season.
A cover of peaks over 6.000 meters, the road turns away from the monastery to the west, away from the route followed by fervent pilgrims, the 'kora' or circuit around the sacred places of Tibet, mountains are, lakes the Buddhist temples (in this case requires almost a week of walking). We left the Yamdrok. The only nod to the civilization of this unique place, a controversial hydroelectric plant built by the Chinese Government, also lags behind, as the unique beauty of a lake cradled by mountains full of peace.
The road
From the capital of Tibet, Lhasa (which can be reached by train from Beijing or plane from neighboring Khatmandú) must take the "Friendship Highway" linking Tibet and Nepal through the Himalayan. Yamdrok Lake is located three hours drive from Lhasa and this stretch is paved.
A nap
En Nangartse, the main town on the lake, the Grain Guesthouse is an interesting option in an environment that offers few and accommodation options. The evening out by a 30 yuan (three euros). If you prefer something better (and therefore more expensive), The People´s Guesthouse.
A table set
On the ground floor of the same Grain Guesthouse is the Sichuan Restaurant. Do not expect frills dining.
Highly Recommended
-Passed the lake and along the road to Gyantse impressive climbs another port, the Karo-la (5.045 meters). A little lower dies el Glaciar the Nojin-Kang Tsang, two thousand meters of ice and rock wall left breathless traveler. Un "Chorten" (Buddhist funerary stupa) marks the spot for the most clueless.
-Two very different readings but equally interesting: "Reunion with Tibet", de Heinrich Harrer and "The best hotel in the Himalayas", Alec le Sueur.