El Carmen: the fire and blood battle between Brazil and Argentina
El Carmen I came to looking for a sacred tree of the indigenous, "El Algarrobo Gualichu". The chronicles speak of it dating 1833, when the strongman of Argentina, Rosas, carried out a campaign against the Indians. The only vintage image I found the town was one of a French traveler, Alcide D'Orbigny.
I always liked to compare the old and current images, but in this case was not possible to take the same picture because, after nearly 180 years, buildings and trees prevented the same view. But there was something about this print that he was still as it now; was the tower of the old fort.
The fort itself no longer exists. Their guns were relocated on the cliff as if following guarding the Black River navigation. Its walls were dismantled long ago, Today the stones are part of many houses of the place. But the tower is still there, occupy a privileged place in this ancient southern city.
In the museum of the city, I confirmed what I had read, the tower of the fort was the oldest building in Patagonia. The fort and its tower dating 1780, shortly after the city was founded by a Spain that people needed to defend their possessions. But why was such a strong priority? The answer is almost obvious: the tiny colony needed defense of the Indians had been founded as far away from everything, tehuelches amid hostile. However, my experience tells me that a stone building was not done to defend against Indians. For this reached a simple lattice, very effective against the bolas or Chuzas (spears) India. Against that threat this fort was built? Against an enemy with cannon. "Against Empire", was the answer I gave at the museum.
It was winter, was cool but the sun was inviting to enjoy its rays. We sat in the sand to review the facts drinking mate
I gathered information and with my wife, we went to the field, the scene ... We drove the truck to the mouth of Black River and down to the beach. It was winter, was cool but the sun was inviting to enjoy its rays. We sat in the sand to review the facts drinking mate.
And 1826 the unorganized Argentine provinces were at war against the Empire of Brazil. The reason was the dominance of the Eastern Band, As I said at that time to Uruguay. The Imperial fleet, sailing without challenges, blocked the Río de la Plata. But ground troops River Plate, veterans of the independence and endless civil wars fought by the Brazilian army and entered the country. The imperial high command had an idea born of impotence Strategy: attacking the helpless population incommunicado El Carmen. Over there they headed several of its ships.
While on the beach drink mate was what I expected. Wind blew from the west and ... I got up and went to the bank to make sure what I saw ... down the river! The water level remained the tides of the sea!
That explained why the Brazilian ships not tried to attack. These sailing ships could not go back all that distance with the wind and tide against. The commander could not run the risk that their ships were stranded at the mercy of the guns of Fort Patagones. Decided to send the infantry would go almost a full day to the town.
We got into the van and returned to the city by way of the imperial troops. Before we turn to climb to reach the Cerro de la Caballada, from which the city is.
They marched all day and his progress almost met no resistance. Before attacking the Brazilian official Patagones ordered his troops up the hill. But once on top was a major surprise. The Creoles pursued a strategy india, vegetation fire at the foot of the hill, immediately began to burn. The fire rose and smoke enveloped the imperial soldiers. From the fort were fired the cannon. Panic spread among Brazilians. Dropped as they could through the flames to find that the natives were waiting on horseback and with swords. Disbanding and death. Thus ended, at the March 1827, imperial adventure in Patagonia.
We descended the hill and, once in the city, I took several photos of the famous tower was declared a Historical Monument 1942. At night, at a nearby restaurant, our tour was planned as. We had already finished what we were looking at Carmen de Patagones and we were still heading south.
But ... And Roses campaign? And the Indians? What about Gualichu Algarrobo?"Asks the reader. He had found the answers I sought, but ... better leave that story for another entry in this blog, ¿si?
Contacto@GerardoBartolome.com
Gerardo Bartolomé traveler and writer is. To learn more about him and his work go to www.GerardoBartolome.com
Comments (2)
Pedro Manzano
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How good is this blog, documented that such stories, so original and so closely related. It is a pleasure to read this page and the stories you have. I know the creators, Ricardo and Javier, but the payroll is spectacular colabradores. Congratulations guys and go on
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Gerardo Bartolomé
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Peter: Thank you for your words. The truth is that it is very interesting that a place as "new" as Patagonia has so many stories to be told.. I like it especially because I know there are people who love to read them. I hope this encourages some to travel there.
Greetings
Gerardo
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