The most influential man in the development of the new mountaineering is Albert Frederick Mummery. Considered the father of modern mountaineering, this Englishman was the best climber of his time, despite its limitations, it was something ungainly and rather myopic, but after his apparent shyness, that hid with glasses similar to those, much later, became fashionable John Lennon, beating a boost and boundless vitality.
To him we owe a revolutionary contribution, which today seems obvious but then it was not: the conquest of a summit does not exhaust the possibilities for discovery of a mountain. Each itinerary that follows actually discovered a new mountain. That is the new task that will be dedicated as, in your opinion, the true mountaineer is only one who attempts new ascents.
It was the best mountaineer of his time, despite its limitations, it was something ungainly and rather myopic
Consistent with these ideas Mummery climbed to seven times the Cervino, then considered the myth of the "impossible", six different routes. Addition, Mummery we also owe a vital contribution to the development of modern mountaineering guides without their escalations (although early in his career alpine escalase some routes in the Alps with wonderful guide Alexander Burgener). Then Mummery has concluded that those who really want to find "the joys and pleasures of the mountain" should only be entrusted to "their own knowledge and skills".
The natural evolution of this new ethics and aesthetics of climbing short term lead to specialization. If so then it was conquer a mountain at any price, will now begin to distinguish routes for their difficulties and develop the land where, be they rock, o HIELO mixto. According to the new times, in recent years and the following climbers team becomes more efficient. A hobnailed boots crampons will follow.
Mummery climbed to seven times the Matterhorn, then considered the myth of the "impossible", six different routes
The innovative Óscar corner stone - That in 1902 first try climbing the K2!- Invent ten pointed crampons or ice axes shorter; and eventually also improve and clothes pegs. New materials and techniques not only provided greater efficiency and safety but, while, given the opportunity to undertake new challenges. Eg Willo Welzembach -Disappeared 1934 in one of the tragedies of Nanga Parbat German-we owe many of the early advances in ice climbing and, with other, grading scale of the difficulties to grade VI.
Always true to his style, Mummery held for more than twenty years countless countless ascents opening new routes, many of them acrobatic style revolution in those years. With a thought alpine summarize your philosophy, who knows, their way of dealing with life: "When it appears that a place can not be passed, is necessary to pass. It is precisely this ". The escalation of the cleft Grépon, that since then bears his name, would become a symbol of the times. And, also, of a trend that Mummery himself wisely predicted, In a famous phrase full of irony: "An inaccessible peak; harder climbing the Alps; a quiet day for a lady ".
The most important legacy of Mummery is the union that makes the difficulty with altitude, the two keys of modern mountaineering
But the most important legacy of Mummery is the union that makes the difficulty with altitude, the two keys of modern mountaineering that have come down to us intact. The British climber seek not only, other, the joy that provides intense athletic activity or a taste for pure difficulty, regardless of technical.
Mummery was not just a gymnast. His restless spirit led him to seek out other scenarios the Alps mountains, increasingly higher, committed and demanding, where his bold and innovative develop mountaineering, the first Caucasus and then the Himalayas. This section was also a pioneer when trying to 1895, first, climb Nanga Parbat, over a mountain 8.000 meters. And I would try for a difficult route and committed, in one of the greatest depths of the planet, After exploring the mountain in all its aspects and reach altitude close to 7.000 meters from the spur on the west side bears his name. Unfortunately the Nanga would be his last mountain. There he disappeared, with two Gurkhas porteadores, when he was only forty years.
Nanga Parbat mountain would be his last. There he disappeared, with two Gurkhas porteadores, when he was only forty years
It is likely that your example of daring and light style, containment means, They have not been overcome in this mountain. As stated Reinhold Messner, "Alpinísticos its principles remain valid today integrates and underlie the modern mountaineering" Mummery loss caused a deep impression in the UK, similar to that, shortly after, cause the disappearance of Scott and colleagues in Antarctica and the Irvine and Mallory on Everest.
