Morelia: City of gemstones
News of Mexico are often spattered with blood and dead. We are in the state of Michoacan, which some place as one of the dangerous parts of the country. But, the visitor does not realize the latent violence, which itself can be felt in other Latin American cities- when it runs through this region, much less when we walk through the beautiful Morelia, the state capital. Its historic center, sober and monumental, contains a network of churches, monasteries, mansions and palaces of colonial style that earned in 1991 the declaration of World Heritage City.
The first morning in Morelia surprising bustle of a colorful parade: military, college, music bands, neighborhood associations… The city seems to dunk on the anniversary of Jose Maria Morelos y Pavon, meet today's 247 anniversary of his birth. This military and priest, born in this land, was one of the heroes of Mexican independence and the city took its name its current name. Founded in 1541 by a group 54 Spanish families, first name Morelia Valladolid was, and it also left its mark on Spanish humanist Quiroga Basque, soul and engine of this trip.
Morelia is living one of its major parties and the cathedral seems to know; looks compelling and baroque Main Square, the heart of this provincial town, cultured and elegant. Octavio Paz, inescapable in "The Labyrinth of Solitude", explains that the holidays are the only luxury in this country. During the festivities, says the writer- "The silent Mexican whistles, shouts, sings, throws firecrackers, discharge his pistol in the air. Download your soul ". And so we see it in the outpouring of enthusiasm from people who have been on the streets.
These portals were a genuine Spanish products. It was the taste of King Philip II, who saw them ideal places for trade. Today is the place of the cafes and social appointments
The magnificent arcaded Plaza de Armas is. These portals were a genuine Spanish products. It was the taste of King Philip II, who saw them ideal places for trade. Today is the place of the cafes and social appointments, and give shelter to the terraces of the countless hotels here set. In one of them make us the demonstration of Michoacan cuisine with a menu of enchiladas, fish in sauce until Xanducata y queso with, watered with lemon water and chia, "The first Mexican cereal", and let us know the manager of the Hotel Casino.
We're ready to sail by the 224 monumental blocks of Morelia. Get into some of the 15 churches of the old town and the fingers will touch the arches of the old aqueduct that during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries brought water to the city. Nor do we stop to visit the delicate The source Tarascas and admire the stone of the houses. Pablo Neruda referred to the pink color of these walls as "bare eyelids Morelia".
Hitherto it has not reached the phenomenon of industrialization, and for this reason the majority of its 1.113 architectural gems stand with an unusual fortitude. The Morelia have good title to possess the cleanest city in Mexico. They also boast of being a student city. Currently there 10 private universities, many other public, and in the past hosted the first music conservatory in the continent and the important Tridentine Seminary.
Moved by their faith in the knowledge, Don Vasco de Quiroga in momentum 1540 -nine years after arriving in Mexico from Spain- the school San Nicolas de Patzcuaro, which instructed the children of Spanish and indigenous lesser extent. Later he was transferred to Morelia and became, and in the eighteenth century, in one of the landmarks of Mexican Independence. And 1947 college was established as, in which still kept alive the oath "Nicolaitans", whereby students are reaffirmed in the humanistic values, Don Christian and socialist Basque.
On Sunday afternoon the Indians came, the little Indians, a kind of sacred place. He was a bell and a certain time they heard the invisible bell summoning Quiroga Basque
The Spanish philosopher María Zambrano, Republican exile after the Spanish Civil War, taught in their classrooms. From his memories of Morelia collect these words: "On Sunday afternoon the Indians came, the little Indians, a kind of sacred place. He was a bell and a certain time they heard the invisible bell summoning Quiroga Basque. Gathered in a circle and prayed silently kneeling prayers, still remembered as one priest whose treasures they said- kept in a hidden place. With regard to those Spanish missionaries who sought the utopia, Lenin said twelve of them could have done (peaceably) revolution in the world '.
In Morelia were forged some of the top names of Independence, why it is considered ideological cradle of the liberation movement. Today wields a long list of museums, festivals of all kinds and an intense cultural life. We visited the birthplace of Morelos, the Museum of Sweets, House of Crafts and entered the cathedral, with two dazzling towers sixty feet. When away from the historic center to the periphery we are hysterical, poor neighborhoods, which do not appear in the guides or the history books, where the majority of Morelia. At night we have another injection of Mexican folkloric ballet as spectators of Amalia Hernandez. His show summarized in just 60 minutes the history of the country's traditional dances.
But the show that we like is on the street, in the Plaza de Las Rosas, Romantic, Garden, surrounded by historic buildings, one of them is the Conservatory of Music- and two statues: one of Cervantes and a Basque de Quiroga. Legend says that the Night of the Dead both rise to talk of past glories and give a review of the state of the world. The place also has half a dozen taverns where you have to sit and drink a shot of tequila. Ordered a bottle of Don Julio we serve in "horses"-thin and elongated vessels- and take "right", without mixing. After we moved to the "doves", from a cocktail tequila, grapefruit soda and lime exprimida.Y well, between "horses and pigeons", put the finishing touch to a busy day for a beautiful city where time seems to stand still.
Comments (3)
Javier
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Very good Goyo, your two post have been a luxury Mexico. Thanks
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elena
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Beautiful hearsay. The city of gemstones. Beautiful is all that evokes this report. In Mexico are all in balaseras, believe me. There is a lot cuter than seeing. Thank strive to make it known
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juancho
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Great story, Master Goyo. Another place q point to the list of trips to the past
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