African colonial toponymy is full of nonsense. Some, even, They have survived to this day. Let's imagine the scene. European Un ("White Man" in Swahili) Ask a native the name of a beautiful lake. «En Aipsha, En Aipsha » (The Lake, The Lake), Answer to see the stranger pointing to the water. The exchange of information is surreal, But the colonizer, who understands something similar to "inaivasha", It already has enough. Is in front of the lake Naivasha. This lake is baptized, The Lake "The Lake". And respecting local toponymy, missing more.
Reading this story, I arrived at Naivasha, one of the lakes that pull the Great Rift Valley in Kenya, With the smile on. Two hours by car by road ( excellent asphalt) from Nairobi, Naivasha -How Aberdares And the most famous Nakuru– is, For many visitors, the first image that are taken from Kenya and, sometimes, Africa (Since Kenya is the most frequent African baptism).
I arrived at Naivasha, one of the lakes that jalonan the great rift valley in Kenya, With the smile on
A boat was waiting for us on the shore (Next to a restaurant rumped by the absence of customers) To navigate the lake a couple of hours. Peter I was guided the barge. En distance, The silhouette of Monte Longano (2.777 meters) He stood majestically with the insolence of his volcanic DNA and pushed us to continue furrowing the waters to try to approach her.
The rainy season had been prolific and Naivasha had an exultant look. A good stretch of the shore was completely flooded and, Because of this, It was surprising suddenly navigating between wooden fences, lampposts, Electrical cables, palafitos wells and lost in the mangroves. The lake, of fresh water, It concentrates a lot of wildlife and is difficult, eg, Do not stumble upon any hippo. They are counted by dozens and approaching them cautiously you can feel that rash in the stomach that pushes you to ask you, Even if you avoid it, What would happen if a hicf. Even more so much we interrupt two of them mating in the water. The buzzing of the engine is confused with the snaps of the animals and their splashes a few meters from us. Obligatory to be comprehensive and get away from Punta.
A good stretch of the shore was flooded and was surprising to navigate between fences, lampposts, Lost wells and palafitos
But what first catches my attention in this scenario where the water has devoured the landscape of the ribazos is an electric laying that enters a hundred meters in the Naivasha until it is swallowed by its waters. Across, down there, There is a hotel that was flooded in 2004, explains Peter.
Resolved the mystery, Wild life monopolizes all our interest again. A giraffe who resists giving up the semi -submersed acacias has entered the lake inside to procure some food. From the reeds, A solitary buffalo observes the scene and watches us with suspicion. A little further, dozens of pelicans of obscene gates and cormoranes enjoy the shore next to an old well also absorbed by the Naivasha, The Voraz Lake.
Naivasha and neighbor Nakuru were the epicenter of colonial society, The Mzungus Happy Valley
Naivasha and neighbor Nakuru were the epicenter of colonial society, the Happy Valley of the Mzungus. One above all, lord Delamare, The main landowner of the area. These vestiges have left their mark on the succession of colonial mansions that appear on the shores (and second residences of new wedge, more modest), Like the famous Djinn Palace («Passions in Africa»). That contrast between wild and residential life is one of the paradoxes of Naivasha.
Bird concentration is also remarkable. If there is something that despises a tourist who first travels to Africa (especially Spaniards) -With their dreams risen by great felines- They are the birds. It is easy to listen to it to the resigned local guides. Brakes 4×4 Dry. The passage is uproar. All standing scrutinizing the savanna in search of the cat that surely the guide has just surprised under a bush. And, suddenly, A jug of cold water. «Up there, In the tree cup, A CARRACA ». «¡Bah, A bird, continues, continues!», It is usually heard.
An electric laying goes into the Naivasha until it is swallowed by its waters. Across, Down there is a hotel that was flooded in 2004
But when one has some safaris behind them, unexpectedly, one fine day, In identical tesiture, You decide to take the binoculars and scrutinize the branches until you give it, You escape a spontaneous «Ooooohhh!»That even embarrass a little and you throw some photos. You have already become what, In the slaughter of the safaris, It is known as a "birdro". And there is no turning back. The sublimation of that passion for birds comes when, GUIDE OF AFRICAL BIRDS IN THE HAND, Finally you see a crimson absejaruco or a cariplaterate cove on a bush and, excited, You try to place it to try to share your happiness with off -road colleagues. And you hear yourself without blinking: «There it is, to the right of the tree, just above that leopard ».
So discovering a nest between the branches defeated by the waters of Naivasha is a reason for joy, How to approach several King Fish (kingfisher). Peter is prepared and throws a dry fish to tempt them to start to fly. Impassive, Martín Pescador is disdainful. The second attempt is not successful. "It seems that today they are not hungry", The guide whisper. El Longonot, since the distance, laughs at the mzungus.
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