Zaragoza is a city overshadowed by topics. By topics and an icon, Basilica del Pilar, which historically has postponed, a visitor's eyes, the rest of the city. Zaragoza is, for too, Pillar and Ebro. Tube and Pillar parties. And a little more. Far from that hasty and unfair impression, Salduie the sedetani, the ancient Roman Caesaraugusta, Visigoth Cesaraugusta, Muslim Saraqusta, it Zaragoza cristiana, modern Zaragoza, in the end, accumulates an ancient story, incidentally, neither the government nor the zaragozanos themselves have preserved for centuries as it deserves. So there is no better way to gut prejudices and clichés frightening to approach her through her past and walk the streets with an eye to their remains and the places that marked its becoming.
We will seek to Zaragoza in its ancient walls and, especially, their doors, each with its memory epidemics, beleaguering, executions, contrabands, Marketing and public intrahistory. They faced assaults of Germanic peoples, Visigoths, Franks, Muslims, Christians and French, but the death certificate of the ancient entrances to the city was signed at the beginning of the revolutionary presidential term, after the revolution of the Gloriosa 1868, when the City Council agreed to shift its demolition. Only three were saved today only one is still standing. For her begin our journey.
His death certificate was signed after the revolution 1868. Only three survived
One step from the Paradise Square, straddles the Paseo Maria Agustin and Pamplona, the Puerta del Carmen is the last vestige of the twelve main gates at some point punctuated the walls of Zaragoza (both the original Roman, approximately three kilometers long and built in the third century, as the rear brick, much wider and built to cover new emerging neighborhoods outside the walls of the first).
Located southwest of the city, Today observes impassively vehicle traffic around, those distant days when its walls hung the bodies of those sentenced to death. Close, on the Paseo de Pamplona, is the contemporary art museum Pablo Serrano, an unmistakable building, well worth a visit (Entry is free of charge and closed on Mondays) If we really want to start banishing the topics on the capital of Aragon.
Continuing along the Pamplona walk to the Plaza Aragon, start of the walk of Independence, the busiest artery City, stands immediately right hand Basilica santa Engracia. At around the door of the same name stood (which once had three different sites) and one of the longest, for he went straight up 1904, when it was demolished to make way for the tram. More than a century later, the tramway (recovered a few years ago by Mayor Belloch not without controversy) Recirculated by where Zaragoza, incorrigible street soul, it is more street than anywhere else.
Incorrigible street soul, Zaragoza is in his walk of Independence more street than anywhere else
You will not fail to visit the nearby Patio de la Infanta, a restored hall of a manor of the XVI century now part of the Exhibition Hall Ibercaja (San Ignacio de Loyola, 16, in front of the Corte Ingles).
At the end of the ride we fall down Independence Square with Spain and the shopping center Cinegia door, that honors the southern city gate, He bearing the same name and whose ashlar, sandwiched between modern buildings, still stand on the side of the narrow street of the Martyrs, a few meters from the oldest restaurant in Spain, LAC house, a temple standing vegetables from 1825. Right next, and in August Fourth Street, A classic among classics, cabaret (Iberian) The silver, quintessence of playfulness and uninhibited The tube.
Beside the old door Cinegia the cabaret El Plata is located, quintessence of the playful spirit of El Tubo
it's best to let go and get lost in the maze of streets guided by the smell and covers a whim desgustando, but in case there are some recommendations: Bodegas Almau and Taberna Doña Casta (both on the street Estébanes, lung area tapeo) and La Cueva de Aragón (Don't leave without trying their famous "champis") and Pascualillo (in nearby Liberty Street).
Now it retrace our steps, Independence walk up, to turn left along the pedestrian San Miguel. In one of the perpendicular streets, Santa Catalina, you have to lose a few minutes in a lifetime bar, the Erzo, with a crowded bar snacks and sandwiches.
In a side street of San Miguel you have to lose a few minutes in the crowded bar tapas and montaditos the Erzo
Coming from the commercial San Miguel Street we will stop at the church of the same name, beside which would rise in 1856, brick in the wall, the most modern door, of the Duque de la Victoria, inaugurated by General Espartero. And also the most ephemeral, for only four years later was demolished. his replacement, lifted in 1861, He had a longer life and resisted until 1919, when it imposed its noisy traffic law. The temple bell bent for years from sunset until midnight to guide zaragozanos in the dark, earning the nickname "the bell of lost steps", as Raquel Cuartero and Chusé Bolea are responsible for remembering in their magnificent “Old Doors of Zaragoza”.
Behind the church, a medianil, a large mural by the painter Alfonso Forcellino remembers the missing door next to a poster that summarizes its history and calls for reflection, always necessary, «about the conservation of our urban heritage».
The old Puerta del Duque de la Victoria is painted on a wall behind the church of San Miguel
Following on the street Assault, at the junction with the street Heroism was situated the ancient Burnt Gate the outer wall, entrance to the city from the southeast, by leaving the prisoners condemned by the Inquisition path of fire. The park located opposite, Jardines del Corral de la Leña, still keeps memory of that past, because nearby they were lavish in carboneras.
This stretch of the route walks with shreds of medieval brick wall (some built to modern apartment buildings). After much hard fighting, here came the French city in January 1809. Hence, this enclave is part of the busiest Route Sites.
By the former Puerta Cremada, along the river Huerva, They are leaving the prisoners condemned to the stake by the Inquisition
Continuing along this avenue to meet the Ebro, front of the plaza of the tanneries was the Puerta del Sol, nexus of the walls of brick and stone (a little below, facing a new section of wall behind the convent of the Holy Sepulcher, Roundabout Puerta del Sol recalls its existence). Remontando south street Coso arrived at the old location Puerta de Valencia, Today Place de la Madeleine.
On the banks of the Ebro continue our trek through the Echegaray y Caballero walk past the Iron Bridge. The next, the stone, crossing from one bank to another in front of the place where he was the Puerta del Angel, the main entrance of the city, at the end of the current street Jaime I and beside the Archbishop's Palace. They used to hang here for years the heads of executed prisoners as a public warning.
Walking a few meters from the stone bridge towards the other side are enjoying the best views of the Basilica del Pilar
Zooming out a few meters across the bridge toward the other shore enjoying the best views of the Basilica del Pilar. Before further, we can divert a few meters on the left sidewalk for Jaime I, after doubling through the narrow alley of José de la Hera, get to the Plaza Santa Marta, nightspot lively place full of bars and restaurants. Domino and beaten and ham sandwiches The Lynx and his "civil guards" (herring rolls, pepper, tomato and cucumber) are two mandatory stops.
Before proceeding upstream, we can not help but approach the Basilica del Pilar, and nearby (and not so known, but beautiful) Seo Cathedral, besmirched since the last reform of the large square by a huge bucket that subtracts prestancia. Either by the banks of the Ebro, While crossing the square (a good excuse to peek at the pedestrian and always busy calle Alfonso I, the most popular of the city) you get to another square, the Caesar Augustus, where, opposite the stone bridge, is raised the Puerta de San Ildefonso, for which he entered Alfonso I the Battler in 1118 after the conquest of the city to Muslims. In the Torreón de la Zuda, still standing, capitulations were signed.
Behind the street Jaime I take a detour to the Plaza Santa Marta, lively place nightly tapas
In the same square, next to a statue of Emperor Augustus and remains of the Roman wall is the Central Market, where you should spend a few minutes wandering from stall to stall. A few meters, at the junction of the street demonstration with César Augusto Avenue, was the Puerta de Toledo, epicenter of trade in the city for centuries. Remembers a mural on the nearby street Salduba.
We turn now to the banks of the Ebro to Europe Square, where another door missing, of Sancho, It is painted on the side of a residential building (at the end of Calle Santa Lucia). We can only overcome the walk Maria Augustine to the Aljafería Palace, now the seat of the Cortes de Aragón, old Muslim palace and residence of the kings of Aragon after the Christian reconquest of the city.
At the top of the church del Portillo, silhouette reminiscent of a door which for centuries stood near the temple
The Puerta del Portillo, next to the church of the same name, It was the closest access to the city from the castle. Atop the Temple (near the bullring of Mercy) sure to draw attention to the visitor the silhouette of a miniature door, tribute to the missing of Portillo. A few minutes walk and again we meet again, after two and a half hour walk through the past and present of the city, the Puerta del Carmen, living testimony of the walled Zaragoza whose memory worth keeping alive.
