Taxco: by the silver route

Walking uphill on the pavement in the neighborhood of the Castles in the direction of the church of Santa Prisca is a seasoned colonial flavor overdose remains the main hallmark of Taxco: silver

Walking uphill on the pavement of neighborhood of the Castles towards the Church of Santa Prisca is an overdose of colonial flavors seasoned by the principal remains the hallmark of Taxco: silver. The artisan shops succeed, plethoric of windows full of bracelets, necklaces, medallions and coins. Founded in 1571 by the conquerors, the Mexican city (located midway between the federal capital and Acapulco) amassed one of the most prolific mines of the New World. Embraced al hill Atache as Gollum out its Treasury, Taxco pierced the Sierra Madre del Sur in search of Eldorado silver. And he did. Still, when the mines in the area have long squeezed their guts, more than half the population lives on the silver and the number of artisans over a thousand. A monument to the mining, roadside, expresses the pride of the residents for their past.

The shopkeepers tempt tourists from the hinge of business. All teachers have the best silversmiths and, course, unbeatable prices. Let no one be deceived: No memories Venden al uso. Prices have to negotiate, but are not low (the quality of the work it prevents). It matters little that is not even noon, the manager follows us around the store with a bottle of "Bertha", a local mead topped with tequila. To reject the invitation would be unforgivable snub and, truth, one almost always feels sympathy for the benefactors brother Swallow. In a basement, a mine of cardboard entertains the herd of tourists. It is put on a helmet and blaster head photograph you like you're hard at work in a dark gallery. It is the inevitable toll on tourism-pack.

In a basement, a mine of cardboard entertains the herd of tourists. It is the inevitable toll on tourism-pack

While the windows go around his back with my doubts, the clerk hands me a beer and so surreal in a country like Mexico I bring my modest contribution browsing through the store bottle in hand. See who is daring to be here now without buying anything.

Taxco is a mainstay of the Mexican silver route that stretches from the state of Warrior to Zacatecas passing through towns such as Guanajuato the Aguascalientes. Here there is no epic romance of the gold miners of the Far North, dreamers of riches, Eldorado Argonauts. Spain sought in the mines of the New World to finance his wars in the Old Continent, especially in Flanders.

The working life of these indigenous miners did not exceed ten years. The toxic fumes were making a dent in your lungs until silicosis them away from the galleries

The working life of these indigenous miners even surpassed the ten years. The toxic fumes were making a dent in your lungs every day until the inevitable silicosis them away from the galleries. With these ingredients is not difficult to construct a discourse on the exploitation of indigenous peoples by the colonial. But I leave a quote for reflection on the fragility of summary judgments against the Spanish work in Latin. I searched for anything suspicious source: the Center for Historical Studies of the College of Mexico. In his "History of Mexico minimal" reads:

"Life in the mining centers was very different from that of agricultural workers from the farm or urban workers in the mill. The miners always retained their freedom of movement. Many were Indians who had left their traditional villages and living in the mining centers evaded tax burden weighing on the indigenous population. In the mines are generally paid higher wages: also, by the system called buscones the worker could get to have a category of partner in the operation of a streak. Then he received a payment proportional to the amount of metal that had taken "

Yet, stereotypes are aided and my shades are not possible.

The arrival at the church paid for by the Rockefeller mining is unsuspected. Facing it is a tantalizing little square shadow, the classic Mexican socket

But all the silver crossed the pond. Something was in Taxco. Jose de la Borda, a Frenchified Spanish origin, arose in the eighteenth century church of Santa Prisca exceptional with the benefits of two mines discovered in the neighboring Tehuilotepec. Then, in New Spain (Current Mexico) was extracted from half the world production of silver.

The arrival at the church paid for by this Rockefeller mining is unsuspected. Facing it is a tantalizing little square shadow, the classic Mexican socket. End, a grating, that of the church, facing the sky over the hills of two formidable baroque towers Atache.

The national, Built in Spain, It was transported by mules from Veracruz. His music should sound every Sunday thanks to these animals

Inside the temple, some interesting: a picture of a pregnant Virgin, in an altarpiece, the figures of two saints, San Estolano and Santa Emerensiana, San Jose's parents, I do not remember having seen in any church. The national, Built in Spain, was transported on mules from here Veracruz. His music should sound every Sunday thanks to these beasts of burden. In the parish office, parishioners hung a portrait of his benefactor, De la Borda, "Natural kingdoms of France" (although it seems he was born in Jaca), to his death "because of his great humility is acquiesced colocase lived Quando" A few steps, in a corner, Eerie overlooks the face of Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec god, Indian rebellion against the god of foreigners and, perhaps, a way to keep praying to beg forgiveness for their temples and shrines down.

Taxco invited to view sunset on its slopes sound of footsteps. Callejearla feel like when the moon silence the voices of tourists and the socket listen only talks of the elderly

Taxco invited to view sunset on its slopes sound of footsteps. Callejearla feel like when the moon silence the voices of tourists and socket, monitored by the towers of Santa Prisca, listen only talks to elderly residents. As we must return to DF has slept, will be satisfied with hasty steps that ever sate the curiosity but at least temper the bad conscience. Amid these minutes away, a gift: the terrace of a restaurant attached to the church where the least is the food. The two baroque towers, saffron by the sun announces the artardecer, watch our backs. Front, the Taxco variegated white facades and streets of labyrinthine, the profusion of tiles, lush vegetation, the harems of the old galleries that prohibited women from entering the mine for not putting jealous…

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