Vladivostok: away from the rest of the world

A 9.288 kilometers from Moscow, a teenage couple kissing in front of a frozen beach where the Pacific breaks its last waves. Russians drink vodka soldiers in the trendy, women walk with the same grace that Red Square and the children play on the boardwalk without understanding that Vladivostok is beyond what we can assimilate in the territory of a country.

But inevitably, this place is still Russia. The Siberian transports broken hearts from one place to another world, because almost 10.000 kilometers are, even for Russians, just a world-embracing. The city faces its winters, its History, his forgetfulness. When I arrived in Vladivostok discovered a city that defies all with an admirable naturalness. The cafes are full of youth and music playing in the streets. It's a way to reinvent, to survive beyond, at the end of map, of any map.

In the eyes of the people there are still a glow of pumps, as if they would not admit that while the Cold War ended.

On the other hand, armed ships are moored in the harbor and in the eyes of the people there are still a glow of pumps, as if unwilling to admit that while the Cold War ended. Vladivostok is a city of two speeds. One takes refuge in the shelter designer boutiques or a computer with Internet. The other is anchored to its museums with a submarine and rejoices in solitude, pride in their military. Some come to dance, other fanning the flames lighted remember the dead of wars. Some want to forget, others and can not but remember. Yesterday and tomorrow, military boots and stilettos, Stone statues and crystal nights. Vladivostok fights his own battle to be decided, indifferent to the indifference of the rest of the world, feeling to Russia while Russia feel almost forget, away from any, lejísimos, as on another planet, Those like the teenagers who besaban without knowing they were 9.288 kilometers from Moscow. "And to them that they care?”, thought.

  • Share

Comments (9)

  • First Travel

    |

    Congratulations, an article full of magic in form and substance! Addition, we love the name of the section!

    Answer

  • Daniel Landa

    |

    First Travel, thank you very much for your comment.

    Answer

  • Nacho

    |

    Thanks Dani, I've taken so far… I has been a source of inspiration imminent, to desire strongly that prayer is the final destination of my bosses. Without being there, I've seen. Brutal.

    Answer

  • Juan

    |

    Nice article. One of the things that attracted me to my failed transsiberiano was sit in those doomsday beaches, looking out map, more at odds than geographical.

    Answer

  • Bertha.

    |

    To these people the battle of Stalingrad they should sound like Chinese. I caught twice where I live.

    Answer

  • Sergi

    |

    Very poetic Article, but like so many from distant places, all that melancholy is more on paper (or in the imagination of the writer) in reality.

    Vladivostok is for a couple of decades, closer than ever, both Russian, as abroad. Dejó ya de ser «zakritiy gorad» (something like 'closed city') as they say the Russians and still being implied that Russian special permission was needed to travel there (in this case being a strategic military naval base) and as indeed it is still happening in different places, cities or even a region, Russia today (the city of Tiksi, Chikotka region,…). As close as Aeroflot and Transaero to offer from Moscow several daily direct flights (8 hours) in addition to any other company. Now also you land at the new airport that falls short of a Spanish medium-sized city airport.

    Vladivostok is a modern and dynamic city (at least by Russian standards and Eastern Europe) and I know for a fact because I have been on many occasions, because my fiancee is cream of his family lives there and 500km north of Vladivostok (if the author of the article had been down that Primorskiy Krai North (region of which Vladivostok is the capital), Ternei and beyond where the Russian taiga begins and you can go fishing in rivers where, if you run, no one soul more, he had written?! (and I do not say you have read pq, I've been there and did not invoke the Fates of literary fantasy for it). And it is to exaggerate to exarcebar dreams of traveling little regular reader (economy forces) or not far, it's simple, but it is a theft to reality.

    It is known by the experienced traveler, that of a travel guide you will not get anything good (the best investment is not buying a), pero parece que ese estilo de «confin del mundo» y de violines melancólicos sonando de fondo, It is imposed increasingly also in the network… From my point of view, it is a pity.

    Para el que quiera ir un poco más allá de la realidad de la red y de las guías que hablan de un «Planeta solitario» (although millions take you to the same place, as many readers) You can book in advance and average or low season (outside summer and Christmas) a flight from Madrid, Barcelona and Malaga (and I guess in a city) a flight round trip to Vladivostok with Aeroflot (with scale in Moscow-Sheremetyevo) for about 600 € (the first flight can sometimes appear as Air Europa and even be true, since both are of Sky Team). I recommend, after spending 2 the 3 days of rigor in Vladivostok to take a bus to the north (or ideally thumbing) Arsenev direction and Dal'negorsk. By the way (and therefore recommend hitchhiking) no one will stop in those cities, but also in smaller places, where you will find (in addition to 0 Turistas, for I never yet saw no one) la «verdadera» Rusia (Soviet if you will), with impoverished localities, but people who break that first impression after freezing, They have a big heart and hospitality. True, much more if you know russian, but good, I recommend bringing a Russian-Spanish dictionary, that you will draw more than a rush and help squeeze more feedback with people, since they rarely find someone who speaks English (anyway because what in our country hardly anyone speaks, That also means any extra disadvantage).

    Para los que quieran «más», in a town to the north (beyond Dal'negorsk, but I do not remember the name) There is a helicopter service subsidized by the state (literally four hard), which it leads people to some of the most isolated populations (from North) region of (that if you book by phone, rather it antelació and speak only in Russian, although you can fly're where you're from). The service is given pq often can not go through months or in 4×4 pq rains sweep the land slide that serves as the connecting track.

    And even with that (and it is only the beginning of what you can do) They could start sounding violins (and not for Vladivostok, my mother, if that's almost like going to Bratislava!) I prefer not to do and that is what everyone who lives with the intensity you feel it, rather than brag with my prose. But beyond everyone… his style.

    Greetings and good travel

    Answer

  • Daniel Landa

    |

    Hello SERGI:

    I read that you do not like my style, I accept it, just missing. But that inquina not quite understand.

    Not just explain what bothers you. You think my article is melancholic and you do not think it is Vladivostok, voucher, perfect.

    I have not denied it a modern and dynamic city or: "The coffees I are full of young people and sounds music in the streets." I say that there is a war atmosphere, which is obvious leaning to port or watching the flames lit up the fallen and war museums of place. But in no way I have criticized the Russians. I've never done. I am passionate and I love Russia Vladivostok. You will see, Sergi, what story I try to show in pictures, As you have seen in the video, which beyond "my imagination", are testimonies recorded.

    I did not have a travel guide (something not demonized, certainly), neither article makes no reference to anything that has not lived in first person and unlike you, instead of that flight to catch from 600 I took the Trans-Siberian €, where people told me stories here suggest, where the distance by train, for some who do not have those 600 €, with which you go and Viennese, deja «corazones rotos», with families crying on the platform. Because 9.000 kms is a long distance to many Russians with whom you probably have not tried. I assure you I have not read in any guidebook and indeed, I encourage you to travel sometime in the transiberiano, If you have not done. You can watch the video here, where people I say out, so you see that sadness invention not me: https://www.viajesalpasado.com/transiberiano-un-viaje-de-tundra-y-vodka/

    I have not been in Primorskiy Krai, but I have been well north of there, on the Kamchatka Peninsula and indeed, I've been there in winter. It is a very authentic Russia where at least the year 2007 there were still places not accessible to civilians, I do not know if today remain "zakritiy Gorad", as you pointed that call the closed cities. In this case they were only small villages or military bases. And so you see it's not my imagination I leave a new video document: https://www.viajesalpasado.com/kamchatka-entre-la-bruma/

    I recommend you travel there with your fiancee. But I must warn you of something, Kamchatka also has a very poetic point.

    Answer

  • Sergi

    |

    Hola Daniel,

    I appreciate your taking the time to answer and explain your point of view (honestly I did not expect). Although I do not think my comment came to inquina (but true is that sometimes it can be quite scathing). I made a part of the Trans-Siberian (Vladivostok a Irkutsk en 2009, since I had no time to do everything and thought it would be more interesting part and the east Siberian far and indeed I found a very interesting and recommended trip, in fact that first trip to Russia is where my love for Russia was born and made to continue repeating and could give rise to what is now known my fiancee Primorskiy Krai). As for the money spent on flights or train, you can take a look at yourself in the searchers. a Moscow – Vladivostok (east) sale 10 months a year for 170 € (about) now and I got to buy for 125 € (last year). As you know since you made the transiberiano, I do not think that neither platskaart (3to class) I can beat that lot out there or round (and instead of 6 half days, Not all Russians have, rebates 8 hours). I think except short sections or means, the Trans-Siberian from end to end is for romantic travelers (and recommend) or Russians not very up to date with new technologies and buying flights (that there kicking). When I say I took the plane is pq after that romantic and fantastic first time, I seem absurd to throw me almost a week on the train every time I've had to go to Vladivostok, but of course always I recommend the train to the plane, or bus / van, to scroll through land anywhere on the planet. And as favorite method (for my) hitchhike, which it was one of the most pleasant surprises and unexpected in my travels.

    And thanks for the advice on Kamchatka. It is so true that, coincidences of life, Those are my vacation this August: Isla de Sajalin y Kamchatka. I chose summer as I have intention to raise some of the volcanoes around, not invite much in winter, but certainly the snowy scenery is fantastic at that time. And in fact we go with Irina.

    But after this long preamble (I have always been harmful to summarize) lo que me «»molestó»» (purposely between two double quotes, it is welcome to read and not travel so much nonsense as one can find on the net or TV) It is that very often I find what I think is an exaggeration of lyricism, «confinidad» del lugar o de lo que allí uno encuentra.

    Though of course as all that depends on the perception and opinion of each, So you're right as I am (but I wanted to express my point of view). And is that as Spanish els means, and hand 99% of all those sites from your chair, I think those articles or reports that proliferate in this literary or narrative style similar, It tends to fabulizar a little or a lot about the fate commented (Perhaps it is to make reading more enjoyable, you do). The most typical case, Africa. Just today I was putting the telly at home and looked down a lot of topicazos in waterspout. He tenido la suerte de viajar en ese continente por más de dos años y puedo decir que no hay lugar más maltratado por los «violines de fondo» que los paises del África sub sahariana. Many of the stories that treat (as a travel destination or to tell a story) cause embarrassment in which you know a little (and in two years there I can say I only know a little but enough to laugh or sputter thus there are often). But I detour, back to Vladivostok. The point is that of course we talk about your opinion and mine, as there are so many, but it's just that so accessible sites, modern and even culturally close them that mystical bathroom, I do not know, I will not. But of course it's your blog, so forth, but they have it open comments.

    If you had written elsewhere had not replicated, but you took my time and talking with my beloved Primorskiy Krai of, so I could not overlook give my opinion. Maybe a little cane? Well, not so much and is a bit of contrast. In addition I wanted to leave a few touches of very useful information, not to make me wiseacre or Willy Fog, but to truly provide little known facts who could interest you dig further in the region.

    If only so, I think it is worth the exchange of opinions. Happy travels to all,

    Answer

  • Daniel Landa

    |

    Everything perfect Sergi!

    Just let me clarify that the lyric is not at odds with reality in specific places. Pero de hecho creo que este artículo que te «»molestó»» (double quotes;) speaks specifically of the two speeds of Vladivostok, which it is anchored in the past and modern. I argue that both perceived and that's what I told, with a style that will be for tastes. Nothing.

    Settled the issue, that in the for both, I recommend traveling north of Kamchatka, that you approach volcanoes and populations of aveny. A It, a town that in winter is like traveling to another planet!! Please, Russia greets me.

    Answer

Write a comment