Hong Kong: the routine of the convulsive days
Canceled. The alert was repeated on the information screens at the airport in Shanghai Pudong on a couple of flights that same morning with the same destination: Hong Kong. Suddenly, flying to the former British colony had become a risky sport since citizen protests against the extradition bill began at the end of March, whose virulence had increased over the weeks until it consummated, successively, the first general strike in the last half century, the assault on the headquarters of the Legislative Council and the blockade during 48 airport hours Chek Lap Kok, to which we were now heading. Only a few days ago the protesters had failed in their objective of paralyzing the airfield again, the eighth busiest in the world, and they would try again a few hours after leaving the city last day 5. So the question was forced. Would we fly to Hong Kong?
In this constant struggle between the semi-autonomous city and the Government of Beijing for preserving its economic and political status without allowing itself to be swallowed up by the communist China of Xi Jinping, The first thing that strikes you when you arrive at Shanghai airport is that Hong Kong, as Macao, be grouped at the boarding gate next to international flights, and not in domestic destinations. In fact, visiting the former colony and returning to China requires a double-entry visa and immigration procedures are the same as when entering China for the first time, including the usual stamp in the passport.
Two flights had been canceled. The question was forced: would we fly to hong kong?
Hong Kong riots have taken a toll on tourism, in sight is. in the various controls, that include the digitization of fingerprints and the required photograph, there are hardly any people, and much less western tourists. The number of visitors has fallen 40% and the price of a hotel room -prohibitive for average pockets in a megacity where «capsule accommodation» proliferates- a collapsed 70 percent. Hoteliers take their precautions against possible cancellations: in the entire tour of China it is the only time that the stay has to be paid in advance, weeks before setting foot in Hong Kong.
When landing at the airport, located on the island of Lantau, nothing changes. No hint of altercations, usually concentrated during the weekends. After passing a fever control in which health officials with a mask take the temperature of some passengers, surely to prevent any outbreak of seasonal flu, the bus that takes you to the heart of the peninsula Kowloon it's half empty. You don't even have to queue to buy tickets..
The first walks along Nathan Road reveal the trail of the protests against China
In search of that everyday routine that always survives turbulent times, the first walks through Nathan Road, the backbone of the central neighborhood of Tsim Sha Tsui and all over kowloon, allow us to verify the trail of street protests against China. The scene of the most massive demonstrations is full of graffiti against the Chinese government in which the help of the international community is demanded. Although driving away tourism may not be the most intelligent formula to keep the attention of the West.
"Not Chinese! Free HK», can be read in the concrete median that separates both directions. Some of these slogans are also written in Chinese characters, but most of the graffiti are in english. «Stand with Hong Kong», «We need your support», they plead with foreign powers, some slogans that days later they will take to the very headquarters of the United States embassy demanding the intervention of the Administration Trump. There is even room for proclamations in Spanish, "Ever onward to victory", the popular harangue of Che Guevara, that someone has written a few meters from the luxurious shops of Nathan Road. Quite a paradox that the involvement of the United States with a revolutionary creed is claimed.
Quite a paradox that the implication of the United States is claimed with a revolutionary creed of Che
It's already getting dark when on the avenue of stars, the promenade in front of the overwhelming skyline of Hong Kong Island, tourists (overwhelmingly chinese) begin to take positions to enjoy the “Symphony of Light”, considered by Guinness to be the most beautiful light and sound show in the world. Is, likely, one of the largest concentrations of tourists in the city, although now there is no impediment to see the spectacle in the first line.
The occasion is propitious to attract the attention of foreigners. The pier of “Star Ferry”, the legendary boat that for 131 years covers daily the route between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, is situated just 200 meters. The ferry is loaded with Hong Kongers returning to the peninsula after a long day at work. The "Freedom Hong Kong" begins to resonate more and more strongly between the passage interspersed with angry "China go home". As the passengers get off the boat and head towards the street walking along the pier, the screams are heard more emphatically and clearly.. Tourists, mostly chinese, they remain oblivious to the vindictive hubbub, that falls silent when the malcontents scatter around the outskirts of Salisbury Road, as if the routine of the city that does not stop, that can't stop, ended up swallowing the hartzazgo.
The "Freedom Hong Kong" begins to resonate more and more strongly between the passage of the "Star Ferry"
The tourist fright due to the threat of the latent citizen mobilization is also noticeable in the traditional "dai pai dong" (street food stalls) of the popular Temple Street and in the surrounding stalls of seers, tarot readers and necromancers who offer their divinatory services also in English. The vast majority of stalls are empty waiting for better days.
Hong Kong at night walks with a feeling of security. There is not even a conspicuous police presence on the streets. On Hong Kong Island, where 48 Hours later, the Police would repress the protesters with tear gas in the commercial district of Causeway Bay, the feeling of normality is even more overwhelming. The financial lung of the semi-autonomous city seems to beat outside any social fire. But again the lower presence of tourists is palpable. The tram that leads to the top the Victoria Peak, one of the "highlights" of Hong Kong for its magnificent views of the city, circulates half empty despite the fact that it is already past noon.
The financial lung of the semi-autonomous city seems to beat outside any social fire
and the subway? The suburban has also been the scene of violent altercations in recent weeks. One of the most conflictive points is the station of Prince Edwards, in the neighborhood Proud, where protesters attribute the death of a young man to the Police, denied by local authorities, in the violent clashes of a few days ago. The station is now quiet, but the subway entrance is a sanctuary of flower bouquets and protest messages calling for a boycott of the underground, to whose authorities those affected by the police action, that they brand without hesitation as a “terrorist attack”, they unsuccessfully claim the recordings of the security cameras.
The weariness of the protesters is written on the walls of the buildings: “Live free or die»
Back to Kowloon, the weariness of the protesters is written on the walls of the buildings, “Live free or die», and even at a no sign of Haiphong Road -where someone has scrawled "Liberate Hong Kong"-, behind the relaxer Kowloon Park, from whose centuries-old trees branch out towards the street, with vigorous sorrow, dozens of wiry intertwined roots that seem a metaphor for the complicated coexistence of the former British colony with mainland China.
Comments (1)
Rafael Navarro
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magnificent text, a unique opportunity to experience first-hand the atmosphere of Hong Kong in these turbulent times.
Congratulations
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