(It's a post without photos. The only one there is the border post of Entre Lagos, on the side with train. Who would know what to expect and who would want them out when it happened?)
A bent metal bar separates us from Mozambique. We just did one last stretch of more than an hour and a half of hard bumpy road and we have no fuel was (I told in a post anterior lack of existing oil in Malawi). Upon arrival at the border, midnight, we find that the office is closed. We asked a man and gives us one of those strong arguments Africans Leave You Speechless: "They are eating. Return when finished ". Ie, "An international border is closed because its workers have decided it is time to go to eat", think, laughing and despair. In Africa will forgive their sins because they really are your best virtues.
We asked a man and gives us one of those strong arguments Africans Leave You Speechless: "They are eating. Return when finished "
To our right, look at us puzzled a group of humble-looking people with their bags waiting quietly in the shade that gives the cement shed the offices closed. The strange thing for them is that four foreigners crossing through a pass less traveled. That border is closed because they have gone to eat their workers is not something to look worried. A few goats do pass with careless gesture edge, free visa and looking for new bushes to which drive the snout. 40 minutes after coming in the distance I see a man in shirt and slowly walking shoes. "It's kind of the border", speculated. Effectively, appeared without apologizing for anything, office opened, passports sealed us and stayed with the question whether after all shut again leave the job because she likes a coffee at one-thirty every afternoon.
Officially, Daniel and I were two illegal immigrants in Mozambique
We arrived at Entre Lagos, passing border from Mozambique. Ana Paula and Victor quickly seal their passports to have a residence permit. When it is Daniel and I turn the affable police ask us if we have multi-input visa. “No, on the border with South Africa tried out but were told they could not do ", answer. "For me I can not give visa, we do not have the computer that make them ", explains. He starts with a discussion in which we reply that we have no gasoline, we do not have time to go back and enter through the northern border, we lose a day trip, we are working and that is nonsense that has an international border that does not give visas and do not know when that gives it the told us we could not let us. No argument was valid and perhaps made a mistake in which sometimes fall to the inefficiency African meaningless. We decided, to the police timid gesture, cross the border without a visa, explaining that he'd get at home. The agent nodded indifferently. A solution that you propose happen elsewhere in the world, somewhat arrogant, and would have consequences. Officially, Daniel and I were two illegal immigrants in Mozambique.
We held, but the atmosphere in the car seemed closest to that we wanted to make a welcome reception
Nearly three hours later, after another very bumpy road, we Cuamba (city ??in northern Mozambique). We stopped to get cash at an ATM and get a police car which was down two officers, one armed with a rifle. They begin to look at our car and we understood we had a problem. A smiling educadísimo official, which there is armed, We are asked to accompany them to Police Station. Talk to us, explains that has a reminder of the border that must be solved papers. We held, but the atmosphere in the car seemed closest to that we wanted to make a welcome reception.
20 minutes after we entered another room where another top that explains that we are illegally
We arrived at the police station and the agent gives us a superior with a memorable speech: "Well, I will officially release of these gentlemen. I hope they solve their problems, I have done my work diligently and I go home for dinner today I could not eat and I have hunger ", says dignified tone in a scene almost comedy film. Don Luis, the head, tells us that "nothing will happen" and hopefully in a room where there are two banks and an old gnawed television on. 20 minutes after we entered another room where another top that explains that we are illegally. Parsimony is taking our data in a sheet in which points up the profession of our fathers. Outside, Ana Paula and Victor discussed by phone with the top of the Police in the region and strive to explain that we are journalists and we are working to promote the country. Everything is a funny, although we doubt if we will a dungeon. In the midst of the farce, unpredictable risks had not felt about having a serious problem.
In the midst of the farce, unpredictable risks had not felt about having a serious problem
When I ask my questioning just go outside to smoke a cigar. At the door I hear a cop who talks to Ana Paula and tells you that this can be solved by paying, be still,. He spoke openly of a bribe. Finally, the authorities have taken a Solomonic solution: "They have to re-cross by Entre Lagos to Malawi and Mozambique to re-enter through the northern border does have the computer for visas". Two policemen accompanied us in the car to certify that we meet the punishment. One, the head, is responsible for the border, bad press and that he will return. This more clearly, we are a good transport for him.
At the door I hear a cop who talks to Ana Paula and tells you that this can be solved by paying, be still,. He spoke openly of a bribe
But, the surrealism of the situation is even greater when we explained that we are hungry and want dinner first. We invited the two officers to dinner at a restaurant Cuamba we open a bottle of warm white wine on the table and talked about "possibilities" less harmful for our project. Don Luis does not listen, no way to make him see that going back is a big problem and has no answer to the question "is there another way to fix this misunderstanding?” (Good news for the country and outside). Again the conversation was really strange. As, the guy who carries his gun ate some chicken and opened not his mouth. At eleven p.m., misguided attempts depleted, decided to climb all the car after a friendly dinner in which even the daughter of Don Luis came to that we should invite some refreshments. We removed bags from the back of the vehicle, we made a hole and started three hours of terrible road exhausted. We all fell exhausted soon after starting, despite the constant rocking, Victor least, a man capable of leading 24 hours for the worst roads and not complain (Paris-Dakar did years ago and was able to finish the job 58).
The police, we had to guard, we SAY "we are going to sleep", forgetting to watch us
We arrived at Entre Lagos officially detained and officially deported. We started to plant our tents on the edge and the police, we had to guard, we SAY "we are going to sleep", forgetting to watch us and what we could do as you may restart the car and flee border post that lost the hand of God. We looked at the office 15 hours before we had been and of exaggerating the mattresses of our stores with the feeling of being something more dumb then. I think I never sleep in a more surreal. The next morning we woke up the bleating of a goat which was sacrificed. When opening my store I see a lot of children in the village in front looking at me with surprise. We collect, crossed into Malawi and last control of a military man asks Mozambique. "Here comes Mr. Brandoli?”. 24 hours later we were back in Cuamba willing to follow our journey. I was supposed to be deported to Spain, with a heavy fine and perhaps a night of dungeon, but the logical thing on this earth is not always possible as to testify that there is an international border that does not give visas.
