The trip
A poster, with a metal gate area shared cells (berths), in which there were always more bodies mattresses, explains the different menus that could be eaten in the criminal: Asians and mestizos (coloureds) were members of the group B; while Bantus (black) members of the Group C. The first had access to more coffee, pan, meat is Azúcar; the latter were not worthy of taking, eg, two cups of coffee. We're on Robben Island, the famous prison where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned 18 years in apartheid times terrifying.
The dry sand island, oppressive summer heat, difficult calm sea and thousands of birds flying over his mouth has now become a symbol of freedom. A constant irony in South Africa, where the symbols of the difficult past used to clean this.
To go to Robben Island have to take a ferry that leaves at 9, 11, 13 and 15 hours of the legendary and luxurious Waterfront Mall. Next to the clock tower building is accessed Nelson Mandela and memorial, after paying 200 Rands (20 EUR) accessing the boat. The building has a permanent exhibition on the process of struggle against apartheid, ANC terrorism or missing children by the violence that plagues this country (is very common here mixing processes and ideas in public places to avoid hurt feelings or, at least, to hurt them all at once).
We have stayed with Thulani Mabaso, one of the last political prisoners to leave the prison of Robben Island, guide we will. "I put a bomb in Johannesburg, in a military intelligence center, and sentenced to 18 years ", explains. It was in this jail since 1981 to 1991, year when the island ceased to be a political prison. Thulani, before leaving for the criminal, shows us a boat, el Susan Kruger, that is docked in the port: "All prisoners arrived at Robben Island on the ship", explains. It seems a cargo ship. We boarded our ferry comfortable now. (One tip is to try to enter the first, since only some people can do 12 commuting miles on deck, with the sea breeze shaking the face. People can not go on deck to see and hear a video explaining the history of the island). After half an hour we came to earth.
Upon arrival to the island we passed under an arch that reads Afrikaner and English: "Welcome: serve with pride ". Then, after crossing the gates of the prison, begins a story of how far you can get human barbarity. "We trimmed the cards you sent us and always gave us the bad news; our letters sent to the wrong people; tortured us ... to me hitting me in my genitals tortured ", dice Thulani. "The first thing I did was assign a number, lost your name ", recalls.
After crossing several corridors, we reached the famous Nelson Mandela cell. Everyone wants to take a picture in the cabin where he lived the most famous political prisoner in history
After crossing several corridors, we reached the famous Nelson Mandela cell. Everyone wants to take a picture in the cabin where he lived the most famous political prisoner in history. Six square meters which only came a bed, a basin and a blanket that did not prevent the cold winter nights. 46664 is more than a symbol, is the name by which the leader is known caged. It was Mandela's cell number.
A Government behind bars
Then, in the yard, There are photos of some of the most important black leaders who were here locked: Sisulu, Mbeki, Sobukwe, Molanthe, Mandela. They went out every morning to break rocks, sitting in rows and chained. The three presidents who had passed by South Africa Robben Island (Mbeki and Zuma were also imprisoned here). "Most of my friends have ended up in jail government posts. Many ministers have been or are. When were we laugh about it ", dice Thulani. And is that Robben Island was also the place where you can prepare the new black. "When we read in the newspapers that the U.S. condemned apartheid democracy knew that was coming and began to prepare to govern. Mandela, our great leader, taught us economics and law. We all had to learn to do the task that had been entrusted to us when we left off and we took the reins of the country. I was going to be the minister of Logistics, but I was on Robben Island guide. Smile. (Of the 23 Current guidelines, 12 They have been arrested).
There are thousands of stories to tell: as the language used by the inmates to communicate: two strokes on the wall, all good; one or none, I have problems. All prison became a chain of blows resound; or listen to "I could never dream here asleep, always awake. Never remembered here a dream "; or when Thulani says he "forgive but not forget" and that "many mornings I have trouble coming to work in a place I thought I would never get out. I have anxiety attacks ".
For other tourists, the visit is different. After passing through the prison, catch a bus for more than an hour walking their 518 hectares. You may contemplate, eg, the little house where he locked himself, all alone, a Robert Sobukwe, radical Pan Africanist Congress leader; defenses of World War II; leper church or the houses of the white guards. We did not do this tour and we were alone with Thulani, we opened that usually stays at the general public does not agree (did prove that we were journalists after). The historic Robben Island, the old seventeenth century English criminal, which was used as a leper colony between 1836 and 1931, is a scary place for its symbolism. Narrow corridors shrink the stomach cells commuter. Today, the same ones that were there locked, teach history, life.
The road
Iberia-www.iberia.com- has flights between Madrid and Johannesburg and is also considering opening a flight to Cape Town. Las líneas aéreas turcas -www.turkishairlines.com- just launched a flight to Johannesburg for less than 500 EUR. www.egyptair.com also has good deals.
A table set
The weaknesses of this traveler are:
Socieyt Bistro: My favorite restaurant. Food, risotto and pasta, delicious (especially the pasta with sausage and rice with bacon and rice with mushrooms). All kinds of wines. The waiters are charming and dinner by the fireplace, Shelf stable, unmatched. A weakness of this traveler. Around 120 rands per person (12 EUR). Direction: Orange Street, 50. Gardens. Telephone: 021 424 2100
Beluga: The sophisticated restaurant town. Delicious and modern environment. Before you can have something to eat in his long rod, where there is an extensive range of cocktails, South African wine champagne. The menu is varied: The sushi is the best in town (Wednesday, during lunch, is half price) and dishes like Squid in Patagonia, el Fishline, el Slow Roasted Duck o el Lamb Shank son, simply exquisite. The price of a dinner for two, with wine, round the 600 Rands (60 EUR). A low price and high here in Europe. It is always full, so should be reserved.
Direction:The Foundry: Prestwich Street. Greenpoint (near the stadium). Telephone: 021 4182948.
Niche: An Italian restaurant in Sea Point. The pizzas are great, thin crust and fresh tomato, and chicken and mushroom lasagna is tremendous. The tiramisu, the 2 kilos, Also spectacular. Price, with wine, round the 100 rands per person (10 EUR). The waitresses are very nice.
Direction: Main Road, 323. Sea Point.
The naker: Belgian mussels, with fries and a cold bottle of white wine with his terrace attached to the boats in the harbor is a great alternative after returning from Robben Island. This Belgian restaurant, search of the Memorial de Nelson Mandela Robben Island, and Waterfront, is best to eat at the mall overloaded. Yes, we must ask for lobster without hot sauce, please. About 200 rands per person (20 EUR).
Direction: Pierhead, Waterfront. Telephone: 021 419 0251
The Sidewalk Café: A secret city. This little cafe is full of charm and is located in the residential suburb of Vredehoek. The views, If the weather and grab the barrel of the door, with two stools, while sipping a good wine, invite peace. The site is ideal for any time: breakfast, the food scene. Cozy living room decorated like a home, unpretentious, letter has a short but quality. The best thing is the atmosphere. Reservations are:
Direction: Derry street, 33. Vredehoek. Telephone: 021 461 2839
A nap
A commitment of this page is only recommend places we've been. In Cape Town, despite living here for months, I rented a house. Yet, no offer abundant and varied: from several hotels backpackers to luxury guest houses. During World prices are skyrocketing.
Highly Recommended
-Read the books a "Rainbow in the night”, Dominique Lapierra; “Brief history of South Africa”, R. In. Johnson y “Wanderer in Africa”, Javier Reverte. The first two are very complete and explain in detail the turbulent history of this country. The Professor Johnson's teaching is particularly.
-View the movie "Adios Bafana", which chronicles the close friendship that ended up with Nelson Mandela and his security guard on Robben Island, James Gregory. And film, Based on a true, used to be a very good idea of ??life on Robben Island.
-Climb to the top of Lions Head to contemplate the city. The full moon is full of capetonitas who want to see the moon rise from the depths of the sea. Bring your flashlight and the climb is demanding.
-Losing the fear of the city and its urban legends and only have certain paranoia precacuciones avoid local. City, by the proximity of the World Cup, Police is filled. Use the minibus: are cheaper and are fun (5 rands journey).
