"That view is from those contemplated for hours without experiencing fatigue: water noise, Traveller thousands of fish, leaping at the falls with all his might; waganda fishermen and wasoga, arriving in boats and spreading out over all the rocks bearing rods and harpoons; hippos and crocodiles, sleepy floating in water; the passage of the boats above the falls; livestock, to be watered on the shores of Lake (…) In one word: box set offered more interesting than we could dream ". It was the 28 July 1862 and John Hanning Speke had discovered the source of the Nile at Lake Victoria, in Uganda (then Buganda). “The Nile is settled” (Nile is fixed), telegraphed to the Royal Geographical Society of London, as had occasion, from Cairo. The big mystery was finally solved geographic.
Nearly a century and a half later. 18 October 2010. A huge billboard for a local beer to greet the arrival of the Nile Sources Jinja (82 kilometers from the capital, Kampala, just hours by car). A monolith removes any doubt. "Here comes the Nile", comes proclaim. The descent to the shore is flanked by stands selling souvenirs to tourists. Down country music sounds. From the bars hang banners Real Madrid, Barcelona, Manchester, of Milan… The global village has arrived, also, the mythical Nile Sources.
“That view is one of those that are contemplated for hours and hours without feeling tired”, Speke wrote in his diary
From the falls that captivated Speke, that christened Ripon Falls in honor of the president of the Royal Geographical Society, No trace from 1954. When the dam was built Owen Falls were submerged. The landscape, however, beautiful still. And the excitement by stepping on the birth of the White Nile, years after reaching Sources at Blue Nile Ethiopia, obscures any easement tour with this magical place has paid the toll of time.
I arrived with my friend Jinja (and partner in this fascinating passion is VaP.) Javier Brandoli after an unforgettable journey through the lands Ugandan hopefully be giving reposada account in these pages. For both it was a very special moment. Javier put the finishing touch to a long time in Africa that had changed his life and I counted the days to meet other Africa, my daughter, who was born one month after.
The thrill of stepping on the birth of the White Nile obscures any tourist bondage with this magical place has paid the toll of time
The entrance to the memorial of Speke, on the west bank of the river, slope 10.000 Ugandan shillings per head (one euro was trading at 3.000 shillings then) plus two thousand for the vehicle. We charge 24.000, rebañándonos three euros each one. We are the only tourists, rainy season because fewer people coming, so show us sympathetic to the unexpected mite. Later plays negotiate the price of the boat that should take us to the island by the natural place the true birth of the White Nile and fold our then to the other side to take a look at the monolith erected in memory of Speke. There if we give everything to get the best possible price, because it is not a matter of word spreads that lurk here two mzungus boobies (white man in swahili) Easy Ticket. To entertain the tug of war, The guide told us that he is an expert swimmer (one less to worry about if the raft is leaking) and trains every day in an outdoor pool in Jinja.
Close the deal, expect output teetering on the pillars of a bridge that is no longer. The sound of the water drowns the music of the bars. Before us rise the "small hills covered with vegetables, with trees and gardens on the slopes in the lower parts "that subjugated Speke. The fly fishermen cast their nets from the barges. Now we can get an idea of ??the landscape that enamored the browser, "The most interesting perspective of all he had seen in Africa". The second elongate, as if to give us more time to regain perspective on where we are, sometimes wrecked when we got to a place we longed for and not what we dream. Yes, true, is a privilege to be here and should not forget.
The second elongate, as if to give us more time to regain perspective on where we are
Sail to the islet, where a tired looking woman selling local crafts to tourists, or two of us. For the little effort that puts the matter seems to be rather a destination complying resigned fatal. The guide shows us where gurgling waters pointing the source of the Nile. It is, again, an act of faith, to join us without question. At one end of the small islet, boasts a sign that here are "the true source of the Nile". The Lake Victoria Nyanza opens before us majestic, dispelling any lingering doubts. Say no more.
We turn now to where Speke made his "discovery" (memorial plaque in the faded word "discoverer"), on the west bank of the river, furrowed by fishing boats waiting to fill their networks tilapias, the Nile perch, introduced into waters in the years 50 and whose presence has led to the disappearance, since, about 200 native species. Is it wrong to invite strangers house.
Speke was carried away by emotion: «I came to think that with a wife and surrounded by family, a yacht, a rifle and a fishing rod would have gladly spent the rest of my life "
The obelisk is on top of a hill, from which the traveler sees what was then Speke and imagines what is no longer. But tread in his footsteps is, per se, reward enough.
"I could see that, without any doubt, the old, the venerable father Nile, Victoria was born in Nyanza and, therefore, and as they had earlier claimed, this lake is the great source of the holy river, the birthplace of the first speaker of our religious beliefs ". Speke was carried away by the emotion of the moment and, as any traveler then and now, allowed the license to dream. "So nice and peaceful place I found that, I came to think that with a wife and family surrounded, a yacht, a rifle and a fishing rod would have gladly spent the rest of my life ". How often have we thought the same to wonder at some remote corner? A Speke visual, who had been so generous to him recording his name in history, not even given the chance to realize their African Arcadia: after two years, died in a hunting accident absurd, a few hours of measuring forces with Richard Burton before the Geographical Society about the controversial birth of the Nile.
I weigh legs as we leave the place with a feeling that will not return. You prepare for years to achieve a dream, but you never stop to think about what happens when vanishes
Back to the other side, exercise of tourists and we had a few beers in one of the bars, Now enjoy the music as we begin to savor the privilege involved have got here. Almost always necessary to crush a beer prejudices and doubts and bring out emotions (sometimes, I have it checked, do not even need to be cold). Before returning to Kampala, we come to the place where 1948 spread, on the Nile, Gandhi's ashes, where the Indian government erected a monolith a few years ago the apostle of non-violence.
I weigh legs as we leave the place with a feeling that will not return. One prepares for years to achieve a dream but never stop to think about what happens when vanishes. It is never good to look back turned, but now I want to do a few seconds, necessary to thank the "venerable father Nile" hospitality. That long journey will be mild.
