Axum is fiesta. And not for nothing. The prodigal son back home resting. The streets of this city in the north of Ethiopia of just fifty thousand inhabitants that anchor its origins in the simas of history have been decorated with ethiopian flags and the Tigray to welcome it. Red, yellow and green. Despite their infirmities 1.700 years, looks so tall and robust as the proud Axumites had heard describe their parents and grandparents. Because in a country with a life expectancy of 46 years, witness his departure has long since died. Almost three quarters of the century have had to wait to close that wound. El obelisk robado Mussolini en 1937 He has returned to Axum and that long -awaited return can be read in the smiles of the Ethiopians who approach to be photographed with him and in the festive gesture of the girls of Immaculate Red Togas who walk their newly released graduates.
The impressive wake, the 24 meters and 160 ton, is wrapped in scaffolding, as a convalescent, September morning 2008. I count the hours for your biggest day, when the whole nation will his eyes to Axum to celebrate the opening of a symbol of the history of Ethiopia, silent witness to one of the great kingdoms who knew the ancient world. Within three days, President Meles Zenawi (died at the 57 years unexpectedly in August 2012, during the editing process of this book) lead the official ceremony with which this African nation suffering will be reunited with the legacy of its most splendid history.
Almost three quarters of the century have had to wait to close the wound: el obelisk robado Mussolini en 1937 has finally returned to Axum
In the hotel Ramhai, the best in town, the activity is frenetic. All employees work tirelessly trying to clean up the facilities for the presidential visit. It smells like varnish in any corner and hallways are a constant symphony drills, Hams and sanders that unfold the few guests, surprised only set foot in the room by the hardness of the mattresses on the beds. Simply, They just changed them to impress the authorities and, with that prediction tends to bring African anything possible performance, have had to choose the "stone model", More typical of asceticism anacoreta of the local saint Tekle Haimanot.
But the hotel management, which is named after an ancient Axumite king V century BC, the first to mint gold coins, silver and bronze and responsible for the erection of one of the seven obelisks - has not limited himself to washing the face of the building. Reception is upside down while several workers are employed in a hurry to change the floor tiles and give a quick coat of paint to your walls chipped.
In the hotel Ramhai, the best in town, the activity is frenetic. All employees work tirelessly trying to clean up the facilities for the president's visit
The main entrance, where the presidential courtship must circulate, raised is largely because you have to replace the damaged slabs, which is a few. Right, opposite reception, two workers try to convert the roof of a rectangular porch, da that the pool, on a terrace. At this point, and just missing the days to Zenawi landing with all su cutting senior, seems a mission impossible. They should build a ten-foot ladder that allows access to the future viewpoint, surround it with an iron railing and fill the concrete floor tiles. About a precarious wooden scaffold, operators, flashlight in the
head, continue to work even at night.
Everything should be ready within 48 hours for the meal with which the hotel management wants to entertain his illustrious guests. And what better views than those offered this impromptu escorted by the pool terrace and the facade of the building, adorned with garlands of colors more typical of a mall at Christmastime? The least is that after the visit of the President is not used for anything.
About a precarious wooden scaffold, operators, head lantern, continue to work even at night
In that habitat will have to take the rest who wait like manna arrival in Axum Zenawi. Managers of service firms, contractors, Avos Business Investors, several intermediaries, second rank politicians and all sorts of the foreign dealers swear by closing profitable agreements with any government representative or, at least, in tie future contacts conducive privileged treatment. Some are already housed at the hotel and the league is recognized. Tom Mikael is one of them. Thin mustache and thick face, curly hair and prominent sideburns, Luce tweezers and fuchsia shirt riseed to the European style.
Sitting at a table on the terrace of the hotel, dotted with palm, exhibits new rich gestures flaunting your compact digital camera. With an unmistakable dismissive gesture and halo of "you can never buy one of these", asks the waiter to take a picture, insisting they remove the tray table to deface the snapshot. While he fits, Tom Mikael slowly pours Saint George beer in the tube glass and smiles to the proud target of his gleaming status in a country of poor. The waiter squeezes the button and the camera slides slightly. The salt nightlife photo. Back to square one, this time pouring a coke more parsimoniously be, as if taking a dry martini in a cafe in Saint Troppez. Now, to make, makes you throw two photos.
Tom Mikael slowly pours Saint George beer in the tube glass and smiles to the proud target of his gleaming status in a country of poor
Finally gives its approval, but does not give further spotlight. To show off the flash in the waitresses, is dedicated to photographing the coke bottle like a Zurbarán still life they were. When you think you've deployed all their technological prowess, gets up and tries to hit the string with three young Ethiopian departen at a nearby table. Soon he realizes that he has nothing to do with them and return to your site to keep fiddling with the camera totemic. Tom Mikael maybe look tonight at one of the many prostitutes who frequent hotels like this, Western hunting the quarrelsome, to show the abilities of your digital camera.
«Journey to the sources of the Blue Nile. A route through northern Ethiopia », Ricardo Coarasa. Editorial Mundo Black. Madrid, April 2013. More: http://www.edimune.com/viaje-a-las-fuentes-del-nilo-azul
