During the years of the civil war in Sri Lanka, Colombo was one of the most dangerous cities and unique in all of Asia. It was also the least provincial tour, a living outside globalization accelerated around. From Beijing to Bangkok highways and skyscrapers were built, while in Colombo, along 26 years, everything seemed to be arrested at some uncertain time in the years 80.
Everything seemed to be arrested at some uncertain time in the years 80
From 1983 a 2009 attacks, car bombs and suicide girls were the daily norm. And with them a feeling of generalized fear. Everything in town was arrested. Everything? Not. In a small open an old tradition remained oblivious to the fear and prudence of that time; Sunday Galle Face Green.
The Galle Green Face is the "Paseo Marítimo" of Colombo, A wide and long esplanade of grass in front of the Indian Ocean. Dates back to Henry Ward's time, British Ceylon Governor, who decided, in 1859, Build a racecourse in this privileged place. Its beginnings were aristocratic and sports, Past water, Like the Empire and Queen Victoria, Because soon it became the most popular and familiar place in the city.
By the south the Galle face, The oldest hotel in Asia, founded on 1864
The esplanade closes stately for its 4 sides. To the north the twin towers of the Fort district, To the east Galle Road Street, the main artery of the capital, THE PONIENTE INDICO, and by the south the Galle face, The oldest hotel in Asia, founded on 1864.
On Saturdays and Sunday afternoon, When heat begins to decrease, The esplanade becomes a hotbed of families who come to enjoy the sea and the company. They walk, eat, They play the Crick and Comets fly. The bravest, Without undressing, They are soaked by the powerful waves of the ocean, While boyfriend couples hide their first kisses under an umbrella. There is the most chic hand and the most humble, living without squeaking the poor with the rich. It is not known who enjoys more, If the founded tourists of the Galle Hotel drinking Gin Tonic, or families laughing, wetting his feet and eating chickpea cucuruchos.
The cookies, “Commanders”, They are prepared with a mass of yellow lentils mixed with green chiles and spices
In the esplanade food is a serious matter. At the afternoon fall the walk begins to fill with food stalls. Simple and practical carts, With rustic dishes for a clientele with little money and a lot of hunger. There are dozens of specialties, But my favorites are chickpea salads and lentil cookies. The "Sundal" is one of those typical salads from the south of the Indian continent, full of extreme flavors and opposite textures. Chickpeas seasoned with coconut and a lot of spicy sauce, an acid and spicy explosion that makes you happy for a few rupees. The cookies, “Commanders”, They are prepared with a mass of yellow lentils mixed with green chiles and spices, and 3 the 4 stuck prawns. Then they are fried and eaten in an old newspaper, Delivered with Lima and a lot of chilli. If they are freshly made they are crispy and very rich, Perfect to sit in some corner to savor them.
There are also permanent positions, spacious, provided with light, mesas, and several fires. Owners, mostly Muslims, Specialties "Marakalas" serve. Indian bread, rotis, parathas, chapattis, tandoori chicken, veal and squid curries, rice fried, "Devilled" and salted from noodles. The main course is the "Kottu Roti", Sri Lanka's street food king, Invented 25 years on the east coast, When some ingenious chef had the idea of ??skipping the bread left over every day with a ginger and garlic stir -fry, onion, chiles verdes, and ladle some hot curry. A delight!
Oblivious to the bad news of a war that seemed eternal
I lived two years in Colombo, and one of my rituals was passing through the square every Sunday. In the IBA Allie ni bathe the volar comets, but to eat and to look. I liked the open space and fresh, flushing away from the city and oblivious to the bad news of a war that seemed eternal.
He paced up and down the boardwalk, nibbling spicy chickpeas, with the assurance that a family would stop to take a picture or just exchange a few sentences or a shy smile and sweet. The war was present, cruelly had marked each of those, But in those moments they only had kindness and looks full of curiosity for a foreigner away from his land. I always returned home at night, happy and with the senses full. I had eaten, Wedded and well -known people.
The war ended in 2009. Prabhakaran died like his suicide girls, and the "tigers", of time, They are a bad memory of the past. The cranes also arrived, The skyscrapers proliferated, Colombo changed and the highways appeared while the dust that covered everything vanished.
However, every time I return to Sri Lanka, I walk quietly through the Galle, that is still a provincial and sweet place. I feel the soft rumor of the indication and the spicy smell of the fried, I enjoy Srilankesa families, And I close my eyes remembering the old and sleeping capital that I met. As the Buddha said, "Only impermanence remains"… “times goes by…”
RECIPE
Sundal, Gañados del Galle Face Green chickpeas
200 gr. of cooked chickpeas
1/2 teaspoon of mustard beans
1/2 teaspoon of white lentils games (ural dal)
1 Dry red Chile
1 hint of asoffétida
2-3 tablespoons of grated coconut
1 Fresh green chili chilled chopped
Sal
Ground black pepper
2 tablespoons of lime juice
Red onion in tears, Tomato in dice (optional)
Preparation;
Heat the oil in a pan. When it is hot add the lentils and let them brown slightly. Incorporate mustard, Chile and Asofétida.
When the mustard start jumping add the grated coconut, Chickpeas and Green Chile. Salt and pepper and saute during 2-3 minutes. Turn off heat and allow to warm.
Season with lime squeezed, tears of red onion and cilantro. You can add diced tomatoes
